Live data from scan tool shows 0 volts from B2S1 and 0 % values, while in DTC mode it shows .45 volts compared to B1S1 showing .9 volts and 99.2% values. Is the sensor shot? or is this likely a wiring issue for that sensor?

 

Actually it is a missing signal from O2. No one will tell You whether it is a sensor or a wiring, You have to figure out by yourself. You may either:

• check wiring,
• tap to a sensor line with a multimeter or DSO,
• swap sensors in banks (that would require a special sockets and often O2 sensors are hard to unscrew)

Choose whatever You like.
Cheers, Mike

 

Thanks Mike, figured I'd take a shot here. Chasing smoke trying to decipher codes from rough idle situation, one of the many codes I'm getting. The hunt continues

 

Howdy mate,
If You could bring some more feedback on Your problem, maybe we could help You a bit more?
A useful tip: on a cold engine, the O2 sensors are inhibited until the coolant gets heated. If You experience the "rough idle" (whatever that is) on a cold engine, then it's not O2 sensor.
Brgds, Mike

 

Started driving home the other night. Driving uphill a sudden hiccup followed by flashing CEL and loud exhaust. Top of the hill, continued running higher RPM. Got it home by nursing through red lights and stop signs, stalled once on sharp corner as I slowed. Restarted and limped rest of the way. Scan codes came up P0154 & P0155, P0300, and a P0101. Tried a couple physical checks for loose connections, possible wire issues and reset codes. Started in the morning, running rough idle, engine actually rocking, again flashing CEL, shutdown and rescan, came up with P0108. Replaced MAP sensor, now in non start situation. Cranks with fuel and spark to distributor, any ideas what could be the issue now ???

 

Focus on P0101. Your cat may be clogged or the MAF sensor is having some kind of problem (failed or circuit issue). I'm leaning toward your cat because a classic symptom is loss of power when driving uphill and added to that with the sudden loud exhaust you had.... You can do a back pressure test by using a gauge you can get as a loaner from an auto parts store. You pull on of the front O2 sensor and hook up the gauge. Cranking your engine you should get no more than 1 psi. My money is on a clogged cat.

 

If I understand properly Your initial post, B2S1 was oscillating with O2 from 0 to 0.9 (that is normal), while B2S1 was giving constantly 0.9V and a smoke on the out?
If so, I would say You seem to have a problem with getting a stoichiometric ratio on a bank no. 2. It could be caused by a:

• significant air leak on the lower intake manifold (recently there were some good tutorials posted)
• leaking fuel injector on a 2nd bank

If You manage to start the engine please note and drop here:

• O2 data
• fuel trims

for both idle and non-idle conditions. By non-idle I mean around 2-3k, if You find it safe to go, of course.

EDIT: Oh, and btw. to P0101 - that is MAF. Super easy to test - just pull the plug out of it and crank the engine. If runs fine, the MAF is gone.

 

Thank you both for your assistance on this issue. Earlier it was starting well, although running rough, and managed to get some live data providingsome O2 data showing B2S1 with no numbers. Fuel trim as well showed all 0 across both sides. the attempts to start continue

 

I'm thinking you actually have both issues. Your cat is cooked, which is why you had the exhaust and non starting issue. But a problem with the MAF richened your mixture too much which is what cooked the cat. But do some troubleshooting before you start pumping money into replacing parts.

 

Reading fuel trims on an engine that does not run makes no sense. Look them up again once You manage to start the engine. Highly doubt they would be zeros.