Thanks Ron, I'll check it out tonight. *patiently waits for other tools to arrive*

 

i have a 1998 s10 with about 220,000mi on it. just bought it 2 weeks ago. those were the exact codes i got, but like you said its electrical. still haven't fixed mine but i cleared those codes by replacing the alternator. maybe you have a faulty voltage regulator?

 

Ok tried, what was suggested. There is voltage at the ENG I fuse (couldn't find an engine 0 fuse, so I'm assuming this is the correct one to test - the desc sounded correct). I also checked fuse #11 in the instrument panel which I've heard could also cause those solenoid codes to fire. I struggled knowing where to trace the wire from the fuse box to the transmission however. There is a lot of crap coming out of there and honestly, I know where the dipstick is for the transmission, but my god I have no idea where the actual box is - which eliminates my ability to be able to trace wires from the tranny up.

All the talk about the ignition made me remember, however, that when i was trying to run an amp power cable through the firewall I was pressing a steel rod with a point to try to push through the grommet where the ignition wires go through. It is possible I may have ruptured a wire causing it to fault which would produce those codes, but wouldn't be my hesitation problem. I feel really stupid now but honestly i wasn't too crazy with it. Anyone know how big / small of a deal it might be if I did rupture a few of those wires? The thing starts and shifts, I couldn't have done anything too crazy.

The MAF code is consistent, however, so I plan on replacing that. I know I need to get my fuel filter replaced as well. If I replace those 2 and I'm still having trouble, I'll buy a fuel pressure gauge and check the pressure to see if the fuel pump might be giving me grief.

This is what I was thinking, if anyone else thinks i should alter the fixes, or change order of anything let me know. I would like to be able to trace that wire from the fuse box to the tranny but honestly I don't know how a person could cover the entire wire to the tranny.

I feel like i failed hardcore

 

Did you ever try disconnecting the MAF? I had a '99 Chevy work van that had a nasty hesitation and threw a MAF code. I disconnected it and to my surprise it started running like a dream, got me through 3 days until I could replace it. (It wasn't such an immediate problem anymore) I don't have the book at home to describe exactly which cavity in that transmission connector is the 12v from fuse #11 but that's what you need to verify now. After reading about your pointed wire I'm thinking you severed it. Maybe where it goes through, maybe when you pushed your probe in there you hit a bundle of wires under the dash. For hitting wires that's a target rich environment You're probably right, no one could go through the entire harness. You find where the wire is still good under the dash, from the transmission check for continuity and work forward and when you just can't go any further run a splice wire. In your case from the fuse box to wherever you can get at it in front of the firewall or put it in its own looming and run it back to the connector.

 

Yeah I tried disconnecting the MAF a while back to see if it would improve how it ran, but it didn't make much difference.

As far as the wires go. I was using a rod to try to push through the hole in the firewall. So if I messed up any wires, I would have to replace every single wire running through that firewall because there is a chance I severed any one of them. Quite honestly, there were a lot of wires in there. I'm not sure how easy it would be to replace them all, but I'll tally it up as something to do later (if I pull those three codes again).

As for now I'll replace the MAF and the fuel filter and see what happens i guess.

 

If you disconnected the MAF and still had issues, then the MAF is likely not the problem...

I would be more concerned about the damage that you may have done to the wiring harness going through the firewall. There are some very important wires in there.

 

I'm sort of amazed these are the ONLY problems he has. Just a thought, when you checked ENG fuse 1 under the hood, and fuse #11 in the instrument panel, did you ever take a test light and make sure both fuses had power going to them.
To give you a bit of back ground: That fuse #11 has two purposes in life, to supply power to your instrument cluster (not the only power feed) and to power four solenoids in your transmission. The PCM activates the grounds to those solenoids individually to control them. So, when you get all of those transmission codes simultaneously that power wire is the common denominator. As for the the MAF, did you ever take it off and see if something is plugging it? Is your air filter getting plugged? Is the ducting all tight including the seal to the motor?

 

Ron, I put the volt meter on the eng1 fuse and verified 11 volts when ignition is on. For fuse 11, I only checked continuity. I can check for voltage tonight.

As for the harness, I'm feeling really stupid about that. Perhaps I can take each wire one at a time, cut in firewall, run it through, cut up higher and solder. Is there a better solution to replacing that entire harness?