p1345 after intake gasket R&R
#1
p1345 after intake gasket R&R
I had a coolant leak from the driver's side intake manifold gasket that I replaced today. I got everything back together and put the distributor in and the blazer started fine but threw a P1345 code. I cleared it a few times just to see if it would go a way and of course it did not.
I didn't have this code before I replaced the gasket and I saw that the dizzy being one tooth off could cause this to happen, but will the lack of one screw on the distributor cap also cause the P1345 code as well. I seem to have lost one of the screws to the cap and have to go buy another cap since I double I can find a replacement screw lying around.
By the way it's a 98 Blazer 2WD
I didn't have this code before I replaced the gasket and I saw that the dizzy being one tooth off could cause this to happen, but will the lack of one screw on the distributor cap also cause the P1345 code as well. I seem to have lost one of the screws to the cap and have to go buy another cap since I double I can find a replacement screw lying around.
By the way it's a 98 Blazer 2WD
#2
#3
Well, if the rotor being loose will cause it, I'd have to think a loose cap would too...
Automotive Advice - Auto Repair Questions and Answers: Engine Trouble Code P1345
Sure will be interesting to find out if the screw fixes it.
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Automotive Advice - Auto Repair Questions and Answers: Engine Trouble Code P1345
Sure will be interesting to find out if the screw fixes it.
_
Last edited by pettyfog; 08-08-2011 at 06:09 PM.
#4
Yeah, that would certainly be interesting. I'll post back and let you guys know if that actually fixes it. I did read something about if the dist. is one tooth off then it will throw that code but I can only put it in how it is in or 180 deg. from that point. It doesn't seem to allow the dist to seat properly in any other configuration.
#5
The oil pump drive is likely what is causing it to not want to drop in. Sometimes the drive can allow for one position that feels & looks right, but is 1 tooth off. After that, it won't let you go back without manually moving it with either a long screw driver, or an old distributor with the gear teeth ground off.
#6
How far down would you say the oil pump drive is and how would I know if I had actually turned it? I did remove the Crank Position Sensor to clean it up just to make sure there wasn't any metal stuck to it but that didn't help at all.
#7
https://blazerforum.com/forum/tech-a...-timing-24373/
This proceedure and a long screwdriver (like swartlkk described) should get it on the right tooth.
This proceedure and a long screwdriver (like swartlkk described) should get it on the right tooth.
#8
The oil pump drive fits into the bottom of the distributor so it is about as far down as the distributor is long from the mounting flange to the bottom of it. You have to look down through with a flash light to see if you've moved it. It can definitely be a test of patience if you are using a screw driver. The old distributor is by far and away easier!
#9
I have the timing all messed up now after trying to move the oil pump shaft a bit. I'm going to have to start at square 1 with this thing... 1 person timing jobs suck!
#10
Okay, wasn't so bad, just followed that link you gave me Kevlar and followed the instructions. Ended up getting a hacksaw blade to turn the oil pump shaft. I realized that I was jabbing aimlessly at the job rather than thinking it through and making sense of it all. I appreciate you guys taking the time to explain things. By the way, that solved the p1345 light issue!