after work i got in my truck and the parking brake light came and stayed on.....i tried releasing and engaging the parking brake and it didnt go off...i had to just drive it home...i felt as if i had to push the pedal down further to make the brakes work...when i got home there was a smell of burnt brakes only in the front. the pads should have atleast 40 percent life left. i checked the brake fluid it was filled to fill line.

what could it be?

 

or what should i check first?

 

and one more thing when i press the brake pedal and turn the wheel it makes a grinding noise in the front out...sounds like from the wheel well area

 

Three things can turn the light on: 1) certain ABS failures. 2) When the parking brake is applied. 3) The centering valve, (sometimes called a proportioning valve, or combination valve). If there is a hydraulic failure in either the front or the rear brake hydraulic system, the centering valve instantly & automatically, shuts off the system that failed, (preventing fluid loss). This allows the vehicle to stop using the remaining hydraulic system. When the failure ocurrs, brake pedal travel will increase, (the pedal will go almost to the floor). The hydraulic system will need to be inspected to locate and repair the leak. On a 13 year old vehicle, the most likely place is the steel line that runs along the left frame rail from the left front wheel well to the flex line located in the center of the vehicle, above the rear axle.... look for the wet spot The line can be repaired by splicing in a new section of line using inverted flare fittings and 2 unions, or the entire line can be replaced. The system must be bled after the repair.

 

ugh i swear its always something with this truck...it was fine until 150k then all hell breaks loose. im not too familiar with brakes system and all that im taking it to pep boys for the first time...anythings better than my old mechanic.

thanks captain!!!

 

If that's the problem, (rusted out line) the parts are cheap, ($30 or $40) but the labor can be 2 or 3 hours. Keep us posted with what they find.

 

just got back from pep boys. they said the line was leaking near the drivers side door at the steel line (good call). to replace this. they would have to drop the gas tank (which of course is full) they gave me an estimate of 607. with the flush, dropping of gas tank, parts and labor. i feel like 4 hours is a little much (they are 100./hr) ...and why would they need to drop the tank if the leak was up at / around the drivers door?

 

they want to replace the whole line and think they saw you coming. Go back and tell them to splice in a piece using couplings. Or do it your self

 

i knew something didnt sound right with that. they also said the lines have to be hand bent and do not come pre fabbed. is that part true?

 

Just did one last week on a 4 door Blazer. There is a union inside the driver wheel well, just above the frame. The line runs along the frame to the rear flex line. The fuel tank does NOT have to be removed. The replacement line can be routed in the exact same location as the original line. Connect a 30" line to the factory union. Install another union and connect a 60" line to it. Another 30" line will reach perfectly to the flex line. Bleed it and it's done. You'll end up with a union even with the driver seat, and the second union just ahead of the rear axle, both are very easily accessible.

2) 1/4" inverted flare unions
2) 30" X 1/4" I.F. lines
1) 60" X 1/4" I.F. line
Brake fluid

Total parts: ~$30
Total time: ~2.5 hours