I am done rebuilding the front end on my 98 blazer 4wd 4dr LT. I am getting ready to order parts for the rest of my project. I know to only use Delco sensors, tune up and other essential engine parts and fuel pump. What about the oil line hoses, radiator, 4wd actuator cable, things like that.


I have been using rockauto and all my front end parts were Moog top of the line, brake pads were delco.


Let me know what you think.

 

Oil lines: you'll be way better off if you make them yourself. Doesn't matter what brand you buy, they all leak, some sooner than others. OEM lines are the worst offender, Dorman runs a close second. Several threads here on the forum explain how to do it. Basically involves using the existing aluminum lines and fittings. Then have a shop that makes hydraulic hoses make up the two rubber sections for you. They will have half inch compression fittings on each end, and hydraulic line rated for ~2000psi. Install them, and no more leaks, ever! Here is what the finished product looks like:

 

Thanks Captain,


I guess I should do this to the oil cooler lines also. Now I have to find a shop that makes hydraulic hoses. What did you cut the crimp with dremmel tool?

 

You can do the modification without removing the lines from the vehicle BUT, it's much easier if you remove them. Plus, after you're done, you'll realize you won't want to do that job again, and you'll have the peace of mind knowing you won't have to

Before cutting, mark the lines so they don't get crossed. If they get crossed, chances are you'll need a new engine before long. Dremmel tool works, or a hack saw. You just need to cut a slit down one side and peel the old crimp off. You need to be very careful not to cut through the rubber hose and damage the aluminum tubes. The compression fittings need a smooth surface to seal against, or they will leak. When reinstalling the lines, replace the O ring gaskets, Dorman - Help Oil Cooler Line Gasket Assortment 66201: Shop the best Engine Oil Cooler Accessories at Advance Auto Parts at the remote mount under the radiator, and at the oil filter adapter on the engine. Reusing the old O rings can cause leaks. The attaching bolts need to be torqued to 26 foot pounds. Over or under torque will cause leaks.

Tighten both rearward compression fittings, and leave the two front ones loose. Then install the assembly and torque the bolt at the oil filter adapter. Next, install the forward end of the assembly to the oil filter remote mount. THEN tighten the forward two compression fittings. This makes it much easier to align the hoses so they don't interfere with moving parts on the engine, (fan, serp belt, dampener, and fan). Any questions, just ask.

 

Why not just have the hydraulics shop crimp the new hose onto the old hard lines? You skip the added expense of the compression fittings. All there is, is the hose and 2 crimps for material. The labor is the same. You will have to remove the entire line and send it to the shop. I had this done on a custom vehicle using donor oil coolant lines. Worked a treat!

 

Hello Captain and rxjimmy,

Not looking to start an argument, just some added insight into the subject.

Is a hydraulic crimp at a shop better than the crimp that is on there already.
I am thinking of making a pair of these. I have a new pair from Dorman that I got
as a replacement warranty. What kind of shop would I take these to?

What would be the pros/cons of having a compression fitting versus a new Hydraulic crimp?
What kind of price would I expect for the new setup?

I am on my 4th pair now. I would like to do these the right way just one more time.


98BLTfree I put on an all aluminum radiator on my 97 about 3 years ago.
No more leaks where metal and plastic meet.


Thanks,
Mark

 

Mark, both style crimps are made for hydraulic lines. The difference is the quality of the crimp, and the line that is used. Lifetime warranty is great, but I only want to do the job one time, especially THAT job. What you are about to do is exactly what I did, use a warranted line to start with.

The style of fitting that you use really doesn't matter. What matters is that it's rated high enough, and it's good quality. The line must be oil rated, fairly flexible, and good quality as well.

The oil filter should be the "weak link" in the system, not the lines. If oil pressure exceeds ~100psi, it will burst. Hydraulic lines & fittings need to be above that, and overkill is a good thing with this job. At 70mph, if an oil line lets go, plan on buying a new engine. Before you realize there's a problem, The oil pump has emptied the crankcase.

I chose compression fittings because it makes adjusting the lines easier during installation... Kinda tough to twist a short piece of hydraulic line

Check with your local auto parts store, they can tell you who makes lines near you.

 

Captain, I would agree I think the install with compression fittings would be much easier to adjust the lines. I have found a local company to make the lines now I just need to remove them and get it done. About what will this cost for the 4 lines. And THANKS for the link on the orings


Mark, What brand of radiator is all aluminum and where did you get it?

 

Seems like the fittings, line, & labor to make them up, was around $30 per line, the fittings were the bulk of the cost. Cheap insurance for an engine, AND knowing I'll never have to do it again

 

All good advice. The difference between the local shop crimping and buying new replacement lines.....in my case, I had custom lines so I had no choice. But I can say this, OEM automotive lines/crimps are designed for much lower pressure. Your local shop will use a) much stronger crimps and b) better and higher pressure rated lines. Take a look at the difference in the design of the crimps in the photos above. 3 ring crimps on the OEM style and a very long single crimp on the custom ones.


I can say that the shop that I used was very good, They crimped one end, I then fit it on the car to get the twist right, then had them crimp the last fittings. I didn't have the room for the additional compression fittings. But crimping them on the hard lines eliminates one more potential leak , the compression fittings. In reality, probably will work fine with the compression fittings. As an alternative, have the shop crimp them directly and add one swivel fitting allowing for twist without binding. Just a thought.