I've got the 2003 chevy blazer. 2wd. 4.3. Manual locks and windows. Still no start issue just cranks. Initially had security light on and flashing but since its gone off. But stull no start just cranks. Someone had said it has fuel pressure but nothing from injectors? And telling me buy remote start kit an that'll bypass everything an let me be able start it. So which passlock do I have in the blazer? I'm seeing there are different ones. Anyone knows please let me know woukd be great. And has anyone installed remote kit and solved this issue? My keys I have are just silver and jave no black plastic top or anything special. Just all silver looking. One is alittle longer than other one though. The smaller one is what my sister was using Initially when no start issue started. Was going try use it but battery keeps going dead now. So soon as I get it charged ill try that key first. But yeah. Its been 6 months not driving. An I REALLY need running vehicle since dads health has went down an got put nursing home. Lost my mom unexpectedly last year I wasn't given chance to say goodbye or see her or anything. I cant let this happen to my father also. Hes only 20 minutes away from the house ! IVE GOT HAVE A RELIABLE VEHICLE anyone has information please im open to all thanks -Katie

 

A crank no start is caused by one of five areas:

Fuel pressure
Spark
Fuel injection pulses
Timing
Mechanical problems

Your situation can be a pass lock problem and if so the ECM disables the fuel injectors. It would be best to confirm this before replacing your ignition cylinder or hacking the passlock resistor by at least testing fuel pressure and checking for spark. Then you can test for injector pulses to confirm. If you need any help with that let me know. If you want to dive into the passlock system we can do that but I wasn’t aware that there is more than one system for this year so I need to verify this to guide you. Do you have a resource?


George

 

I did some digging and we should have passlock 2. Even if my info is wrong and you have passlock 1 the hack is the same when the time comes. To confirm that you have passlock and not VATS or passkey there should be no resistor chip on your key or the marking PK3. If that the case then it’s passlock as on my 2002, and properly cut cheap key Blank will work. I still recommend verifying as in my previous post before cutting into your wiring harness. Either way we can help

George

 

I confirmed with the wiring diagram for your 2003 that you have passlock 2 as the ignition module communicates directly with the BCM. This is the easiest system to hack if we get to that point.


George

 

I'm not forsure how I even use this site lol I'm new here but hope this is how I reply back to you but now at the very start of blazer not starting we popped hood and friend had noticed the ecm fuse was missing. He said he put one he had in and it didn't make any difference. An my sisters bf was keeping anyone from driving it and would pull whatever fuse at time that would disable it to move basically so that no one drove it but him. I read ubsaid the ecm will disable fuel injectors.. maybe think buying a new ecm would help? If i can find one junk yard that is... and has anyone heard of a remote start getting installed then it will start an run?

 

There are two ways to approach a vehicle that has problems. Start guessing and throwing parts at the problem which can get expensive and frustrating as well as introduce new problems, or diagnose the problem and find what needs to be repaired or replaced and then verify the repair.

If the truck cranks but wont start the first thing to do is find out which system does not work. A simple thing that does not need any special tool is to test for spark. Then you can get a loaner fuel pressure gauge from the parts store and measure fuel pressure. Then you can buy a $10 incandescent test light and check the fuel injector signals. After that you would need a code scanner. Once you find out which system does not work then you find out why, for instance if its fuel injection pulses then it may in fact be your passlock system.

I will be glad to guide through proper testing and repair.

It's not the way I prefer to work but if you want to go the other route, if you have a flashing security light then you can do the passlock resistor hack and see if that solves your problem. Be advised that we might get lucky or this approach might be quite time consuming and expensive.

As far as family and friend drama, I can't help you there, most of us have plenty of that to deal with ourselves. There are a dozen fuses that can prevent a truck from running or starting. There are also countless other ways to defeat a trucks engine. Once again you have to start with which system is broken or sabotaged/deated.

George

 

Already did the fuel pressure test and he said it was just fine and on point. He says the Injectors aren't firing or something. I had made post on this issue awhile ago ill see if I can find it and copy an paste it in case it gives you more information on my issue..

 

If the injectors are not firing then it may be the security system and the passlock II resistor hack may work


George

 

Someone did wire on a resistor and it didnt change anything. The security light did go back to normal though. So not sure if after he put that resistor on helped it go back normal or what. But its still acting the same way when turn the key.

 

I am talking about a resistor between the black and yellow passlock wires to the PCM with the yellow wire disconnected from the ignition switch, Then you have to do the relearn proceedure. You either measure and match the existing value or use 2.2k ohms. How confident are you that this was done correctly?

Did the fuel pressure hold at 55 psi min ten min after key on?

Once again, if you are cranking and not starting you need to determine if its spark, fuel pressure, injector pulses, timing or an engine mechanical problem. If its the passlock system then the issue will be injector pulses. Do you have spark at the plugs?

George