good to hear that I think I will go for the murry. save some extra running. I have had no experience with Murry brand

 

well new thermostat in the old one was not closing completely. is was like the pin/shaft was bent it didn't move very well and would stick on one side. well we will see what it does this week, might have to plan some after work adventures to see how the mileage does now that it can go in to closed loop.

this is going to sound stupid but I have new cap and rotor coming with a set of autolite wires as suggested. would it hurt anything to put them on before changing the spark plugs, off the top of my head I think of anything other than make sure I grease the boots good. it might be a week or two before I can get out to the shop were I will have the tools to do the plugs.

 

You shouldn't have a problem doing the plugs last. You should see gains with the tstat, cap and rotor. Let us know!

 

any pearls of wisdom on changing the cap and rotor other than marking the wires. I never had one off with the wires that go in the side. they shouldn't be any different right?

 

Rotate the boots back and forth slightly until they break loose from the cap. Once they break loose, they'll pull right out. When reinstalling them, put a dab of silicone dielectric grease on each terminal, inside and out, of the cap.

 

hey thanks capt I have been looking for a diagram with out having to buy a book.

 

Don't need a book, you're a member here, remember? Just ask, somebody will have what you're looking for.

 

I need to run another thing by you guys is. I have a noise when accelerating, in the old days I would have called "cam rattle" or "pinging" or "pre-denotation" or "the timing is to advanced". I think i seen something about cam timing on one of the other threads. since timing advance is controlled by the computer. any suggestions??

 

Camshaft retard is adjustable and it's used for identifying which cylinders are misfiring. It also affects ignition timing. If camshaft retard is out of specification, DTC P1345 will set and the SES light will come on. It is entirely possible for camshaft retard to be within specs and cause driveabilty issues, (stumble, hesitation, surging etc) without the SES light coming on.

When the knock sensor detects spark knock, the PCM retards ignition timing up to a maximum of ~30 degrees, or until the sensor no longer detects the knock, whichever comes first. The knock sensor is tuned to respond to the frequency of spark knock. If you're hearing a knock, and there are no knock sensor DTC's in memory, it's not spark knock that you're hearing.

 

when the engine is cold I always hear piston slap but goes away after it warms up. now that my mind is starting to work this morning this problem started about the time we put the new transmission in (could be part of this) the new tranny shifts hard from first to second if you accelerate a little hard then but all other shifts are easy and almost premature almost to early. if it was a carburetored I would almost say the accelerator pump was out and the kick down cable was out of adjustment or the modulator was screwed up.

it has been kind of doggy when drove easy except for take off. I attributed this to the stall in the new converter and new transmission. the transmission was adjusted by the GM dealership about a year ago for shifting issues and was told it was ok and it was in spec.

this is going to sound a little nuts could the TPS be part of the cause of this? or could the knock sensor be defective?

on a lighter note the changing of thermostat, seems to be helping mileage. I got about 75 miles on it and the gauge has hardly moved.