Problems replacing 96 Radiator
#1
New radiator time.
I couldn't remove clips from oil/trans lines wile on old radiator so I unscrewed them. The guy at the shop showed me how to pick them out and also how to just pop the lines into the brand new fittings on the new radiator. New Radiator, fittings and "O" rings too - who can argue with that? 3 of the 4 lines came right out after removing the clips. The top tranny line would only wiggle to and fro and in circles but would not let go. I tried PB Blaster, dental tool scraping and even breaking the slots with a flat head. scrubbing with friction and carb cleaner too. I gave up and put the fitting back on it in hopes that I did not damage it. LOL
after cleaning all the line tips I attempted to snap them in. Oil lines first. It would start but not go. I wrestled with it for over an hour and the top one too. I just could not get enough muscle behind it without risking bending the line or goining in crooked. I am stuck looking for ideas to make a simple, easy task - easy.
The guy showed me that installation was simple. Getting them back out after the lock was the only hard part. Any ideas would surely help
I couldn't remove clips from oil/trans lines wile on old radiator so I unscrewed them. The guy at the shop showed me how to pick them out and also how to just pop the lines into the brand new fittings on the new radiator. New Radiator, fittings and "O" rings too - who can argue with that? 3 of the 4 lines came right out after removing the clips. The top tranny line would only wiggle to and fro and in circles but would not let go. I tried PB Blaster, dental tool scraping and even breaking the slots with a flat head. scrubbing with friction and carb cleaner too. I gave up and put the fitting back on it in hopes that I did not damage it. LOL
after cleaning all the line tips I attempted to snap them in. Oil lines first. It would start but not go. I wrestled with it for over an hour and the top one too. I just could not get enough muscle behind it without risking bending the line or goining in crooked. I am stuck looking for ideas to make a simple, easy task - easy.
The guy showed me that installation was simple. Getting them back out after the lock was the only hard part. Any ideas would surely help
#2
I am waiting for a radiator for my 2001 now, I understood that it did not come with engine oil cooler fittings, only the trans fittings???........so I went and bought the fittings for the oil side .......I unscrewed all of the fittings out of the radiator [at the time, I had no idea that they were quick connect] I left the connector together on the trans side [ they seemed to be a pretty tight fit] ....I will wait to see what connectors I get.......
I tried the old oil side connectors after i got it cleaned up and they snapped in easily.......I have not tried the new ones yet.......
I wonder if you got the right connectors???? ......have you tried the old ones ....just to see if something else is going on with the new ones??
I tried the old oil side connectors after i got it cleaned up and they snapped in easily.......I have not tried the new ones yet.......
I wonder if you got the right connectors???? ......have you tried the old ones ....just to see if something else is going on with the new ones??
#3
Thank you Don
The male (from the engine) tips slide right into the openings but will not go deep enough to lock. I just cannot get enough pressure to get it all the way. I hate to use the [22yr] old fittings when the new radiator came w/brand new w/"o" rings.
Just hoping someone else has overcome this and can advise
The male (from the engine) tips slide right into the openings but will not go deep enough to lock. I just cannot get enough pressure to get it all the way. I hate to use the [22yr] old fittings when the new radiator came w/brand new w/"o" rings.
Just hoping someone else has overcome this and can advise
#4
I installed my radiator yesterday.......I only got the trans, fittings with it??......I bought new engine oil fittings separately the fittings on both sides did NOT go in easy......I got 3 out of four and lost 2 quarts of ingine oil in about 2 seconds ].......I did not get the top one in far enough........I had to rig a pry bar up against that fitting to get enough leverage to snap it in......I now have NO leaks..........BUT, I don't think I will ever trust those connections again........If i have any more trouble with them I will buy new hoses with flange, and nutted ends
#5
After taking my new radiator back for a different brand everything snapped in nice & tight. Been driving it around for almost two weeks now. Today was disasterous though.
After a morning appointment I got on the freeway. I was up to speed and I noticed a whole lot of white smoke behind me but I could not tell if it was me. Then I lost power. May natural instinct was to put my foot into it and that didn't help. The "Check Gages" light was on and I had "0 Oil Pressure."
At 85 mph in the left lane it was tricky to pull over and coast but when I got there, the engine died. The engine compartment and the Drivers side was all soaked with oil. After towing it home I found the upper oil connector had popped off and the stick was dry. I drained the cup or so of remaining black burned oil, screwed on a new filter and filled it up.
Tough turning over but she did start. Very rough idle and needed some pedal to keep going. Once it warmed up it had a nasty knock. I called a mechanic I know and asked him if driving it would make it worse. He said the damage was already done and coming over to hear it knock would not allow him a positive diagnosis. He suggested I just drive it until it dies completely and drop a new motor in. In the meantime watch for metal shavings on the stick I thought I might put it up here for some feedback.
After a morning appointment I got on the freeway. I was up to speed and I noticed a whole lot of white smoke behind me but I could not tell if it was me. Then I lost power. May natural instinct was to put my foot into it and that didn't help. The "Check Gages" light was on and I had "0 Oil Pressure."
At 85 mph in the left lane it was tricky to pull over and coast but when I got there, the engine died. The engine compartment and the Drivers side was all soaked with oil. After towing it home I found the upper oil connector had popped off and the stick was dry. I drained the cup or so of remaining black burned oil, screwed on a new filter and filled it up.
Tough turning over but she did start. Very rough idle and needed some pedal to keep going. Once it warmed up it had a nasty knock. I called a mechanic I know and asked him if driving it would make it worse. He said the damage was already done and coming over to hear it knock would not allow him a positive diagnosis. He suggested I just drive it until it dies completely and drop a new motor in. In the meantime watch for metal shavings on the stick I thought I might put it up here for some feedback.
#7
Good news!
I spoke with the Radiator Mfg. (Reach Cooling). They said that these fittings are 99.9% without failure but they will test the unit and make it right by me with another engine if they can find what caused the failure. The guy sounded pretty honest on the phone and the retailer said that when he sends it back he will verify the facts. I was driving that Radiator for over two weeks. If it weren't for the recently rebuilt transmission I would just move on. Probably to a newer year Blazer with the "Dome Override" button. '96 was the first year of OBDII CAN also
Wish me luck!
I spoke with the Radiator Mfg. (Reach Cooling). They said that these fittings are 99.9% without failure but they will test the unit and make it right by me with another engine if they can find what caused the failure. The guy sounded pretty honest on the phone and the retailer said that when he sends it back he will verify the facts. I was driving that Radiator for over two weeks. If it weren't for the recently rebuilt transmission I would just move on. Probably to a newer year Blazer with the "Dome Override" button. '96 was the first year of OBDII CAN also
Wish me luck!





