Removing the screws probably isn't a great idea. Fluid will come out very fast and let air into the system. You should bleed each wheel until fresh fluid comes out. Get the seal on right and do a good bleed and you should be much better off.

 

OK, I think I see several things I'm doing wrong. First, I have been leaving the cover and seal off to check to make sure the master cylinder gets enough fluid. Is the cover supposed to be left in place during the bleed? Does this put a little pressure to force the fluid out better?

Also I was putting the seal down first and then pushing the cover down. That was causing the seal to deform. The seal has to be forced onto the cover first and then together pushed down on the reservoir.

Removing the screws didn't hurt because the flow was so slow. Didn't do any good either. They weren't clogged.

I must still have air in there. It wasn't firm when pressing the brake. Hopefully third time will be the charm or I'll have to have it done during the inspection.

 

Yeah, once you have the master is cleaned out you can put the seal back one then just remove the cap to add fluid. Just be sure you have one end of the tube in fresh fluid and keep bleedin until fresh fluid comes out the tube from the caliper. You should repeat the process on each wheel. After doing that you should have no air in the system.

Forgot to add don't let the master run empty during the process! Do that and post back, should be as good as new lol.

 

Inspection??? for what?

and yeah thats what i was saying is you have to put it on the cap. and I dont remember but you might want to fill it up as much as possible put the cap on and bleed 1, tighten the screw and check the fluid level again.

 

Wait, what exact "bleed" process did you do? The pedal should be stiffer, after the fact, not sink down to the floor. I hope you didn't drive it!

 

I unsuccessfully tried to bleed the brake lines using the gravity method outlined on several threads. First I had to replace the left rear line because it was rusted. That went well, but after two tries to bleed the lines, RR, LR, RF, LF, I still have air in there. Both times I had the master cylinder cover and seal off. This time I am leaving the cover on as this seams to be what is advised here. I did get some air out last time but the level of fluid does not seem to go down much although I'm just eye-balling it, not measuring it exactly. It would seem if I'm displacing air and getting good volume out at the calipers, the level of fluid in the tank above the master cylinder should go down noticeably.

It just seems to take forever on the rear wheels compared to the front.

K1500brute: I was planning to get Rusty inspected today, but the mechanic recommended I fix everything first. I had a P0171 come up and still 2 mil haven't completed yet. Rusty hasn't been driven for 3 years and I only have 14 miles on it now. OK I'm getting to know this truck now. I had another '96 Blazer that never had anything wrong until the engine went south.

 

OK much better this time. Fluid came out fast on all four wheels. Brakes feel much better now. Thanks guys.

 

Glad to hear! Sometimes "simple" jobs turn into big headaches! Lol