The t-stat is 195 OE temp. I removed and flushed radiator with garden hose tonight, added a couple of bottles of coolant flush chemical and drove home from work, flushed rad and flushed engine with engine running. Got some sludge and sediment type material from both. Refilled coolant and bleed system, will retest tommorrow.

 

Status check....How is it?

 

Yea I'd like to know as well because mine is doing the same it will stay right below 210 if I'm just cruzing and goes above after about 15-20 mins of in town driving.

 

Removed radiator and flushed with water hose, flushed a good amount of sediment type of material from rad and engine. Retested seems to run cooler for a little longer but still runs hotter than it should, think it needs a radiator, gonna buy a new one hopefully this week. Hope that does it cause im about out of options on this one. Will update as soon as possible Thanks

 

Got to love DEX-A-CRAP, In the same boat. Changed all the good stuff, gaskets,pump yada, yada, yada, now the overheat. Found the rear passage in the manifold pluged full of hard crap that plugged up my new heater core, now I think everything is plugged up from the manifold gasket change and me trying to clean the passages. The garage has a machine that I am taking the blazer to that back flushes and pumps alot of stuff out. He is a friend and says he has pumped rock size pieces out of the core before. The garden hose just don't have it.

I had this done once with chemicals and the crap that came out was something. Worked fine for a while but think I need to do it again, now that the gasket is changed.

Good luck and let us know what happened.

 

Hey guys ,A new "old guy" here to the site..lol. Has anyone cured this issue of overheating yet? I'm also having overheating problems with my '95 jimmy. I'm going to try the temporary thermostat removal and drive to check. I've replaced the clutch fan with a h/duty, checked flow which is good. I bled it of air but still the guage climbs in traffic or on the freeway into about the red zone. Then it pukes coolant when I shut it off. I got a nice rad from the local u pull it today and will have it cleaned and will install this weekend. I,m also thinking of replacing the water pump while doing the rad change. I just got this 2 dr 2wd jimmy in a trade I that did in a car sale. I have a '85 S10 with a 350/350th 3:42s that stays aroung 195* with a wide blade flexolite fixed fan...looks like I'll be abusing it until I get the jimmy fixed..lol. Please keep the good info flowing on this site..Thanks!

 

If you are willing to temporarily remove the T-stat, why not just install a new one? You will only have to remove the housing once instead of twice.

When the truck is running and up to temperature feel the upper hose. if it is hard (With rad cap off) your radiator is plugged.

Unless the pump is leaking, I wouldnt change it. I personally have never had a water pump in such bad shape that it caused overheating. It happens but I feel its alot of work to replace a part that is still good.

You mentioned you check flow and it was good. Air flow? Coolant flow?

Good luck!

 

Sorry its been so long but ive been busy. Anyway i replaced the radiator with a new one from Auto Zone. And it has been running cool ever since, doesn't even get close to halfway mark on the gauge. It runs cool no matter if its at idle, or on the interstate just like in the old days lol!! Thanks to everyone for the help, and im glad to have the blazer back!!!! Thanks Again J.R.

 

I think the problem I had was the pet **** leaking and not a crack as I thought. But I had already got another radiator and changed it out (with a cast on my right hand by the way) before I realized it. As soon as I get this stupid cast off I'll change the thermostat that I also have on hand. the guage now reads below 200* and all is well