First,

Thank you Blazinator et al. for this thread. The input and photos helped to track down the same problem in my 95 S10 LS (please don't ban me...). This is the ONLY place in THREE years that I have found to get the answers I need.

At this time I do not have the photos of my job, but I will have them later in the morning. And this is where I jump off on my complication with the repair...

I had completed the cleaning of the upper intake (both halves) and I was about to temporarily connect my battery to pressurize the fuel system to check for leaks. When I did a red wire near the ABS system shorted, lit up and burned out. This has severed my vacuum line to the windshield wiper reservoir and singed the black "dust" wrap around the ABS wire bundle. I cannot inspect for more damage until daylight.

Other symptoms: battery had minor arching (got disconnected as fast as I could) and no other visible evidence connected to this.

Any help is VERY appreciated, this is my primary vehicle and I need to get it back on the road ASAP.

THX,
BAR

 

Follow up:

GOt the truck repaired and running... for two days. The line that shorted was a hot line that powered my electronic brake controller and camper shell stuff. I have a new fuseable link that I will be installing. I do not know why there was not one in the first place.

The S10 does not want to start ( pressure is in specs), but I believe that the intake manifold tuning valve is now done. When I removed it to clean the upper intake, the "flap" of the valve moved freely. Now it does not. I beleive that I will have to replace it.

Can someone verify? Also, if I do my options appear to be discontinued ACDelco part 17112711. This I can find only on eBay and OE parts Warehouse (ca $125). The other option is BWD's version from O'Reilly/ Checker for ca. $300.

Input, please!

Thank you.

BAR

 

how about getting a good, used manifold tuning valve?

 

Thanks for the reply...

I have started the search, but the yards here in PHX that I have contacted do not have any... tips on good sources?

Additionally, I did NOT replace the nut kit with the FPR replacement. Should I?

 

BUMP-date...

Plugs replaced due to carbon fouling with ACDelco Platinums... all wires connected in correct order and seated properly.

Intake Manifold Tuning valve replaced (eBay for best price, thank you)...

Still no start, no codes.

Fuel pressure getting checked tomorrow... still unknown.. should I look at nutkit and the screened gasket for EGR valve?

Follow-up is appreciated!

Thanks.
BAR

 

Why you would wait this long without a fuel pressure test is beyond me... Gotta get that done before replacing anything else!

 

@ swartlkk: Honestly, I was being poor and stubborn about the pressure test... the poor part solved itself with some $$ today!

Test results: Poor.. very poor... highest 34psi dropped by 2 psi every minute for five minutes. Repeated test, repeated results.

OK, now where should I go from here? Reopen the intake? Am I looking at fuel pump?

Last... anyone out here in Mesa/ PHX AZ that can help?

Thanks.
BAR

 

If you can find the proper NPT to JIC fittings to adapt your pressure gauge to the fuel filter inlet, you can test the pressure coming directly out of the pump.

 

Suggestions on where to get the needed connectors? Still learning this info for the ol'gal... You were speaking of the connection points to the fuel filter, correct?

Thanks.
BAR

 

You'll need to adapt from the NPT fitting on the fuel filter (the side towards the tank) to the -4AN (aka 7/16 x 20 JIC) male fitting. Its either a 1/4" NPT or a 3/8" NPT (can't remember which) on the filter. As far as where to find the fittings... I have seen them at tractor supply places before. Some hardware shops carry them. Speed shops should have them as well. Not many autoparts stores do though.