Knock on wood, that's all it is!

Spark, fuel or air. Have everything ready to see which it is during no start. Fuel pressure gauge, spark tester and multimeter. Intermittent problems are tough but not impossible. You just have to be ready and hooked up for when it happens. Do spark first then if you have 1” of strong blue spark then get set up for fuel pressure. Once you know which one it is then we go a level deeper on that one.




George

not fuel, not air,
all that's left is all the stupid electronic widgets, doo-dads, thing-a-ma-bobs, and wizzy-dos

And every body wonders why my old school mind would rather have old school non computerized carb, points ECT ECT ECT . It really actually was just air - fuel - spark back then .....
:icon_clapclap:

Oh, come on... That is actually the same nowadays. Instead of the nozzle for mixing You have the valve that opens and injects the fuel. Does it really make that difference? ;)

Well Mike
A stuck float, burnt points, ECT. pretty much easy to trouble shoot without special meters, computers, code readers and such. If I knew how to transfer it here I would but look at your last post in pigtails LOL

I did that on purpose, I admit :) My goal was to point that if You have some understanding on how does it work, then it actually doesn't matter whether it is a carb or injector. Here the float stuck, there the valve. No big difference.
The computers and code readers are add-ons here, as for example:
- O2 sensor readings with trims will give You more understanding of fuel injectors leaking
- misfire is a calculated velocity change of a crankshaft that will let You know if there is something going on
You may pretend they don't exist and struggle finding the blown gasket, vacuum leak and guessing the reason for a wrong fuel economy. For a long time I've been resisting to use OBD2 diagnosis, I preferred an old school and it took me quite a time to change over - I had to eventually buy a Blazer one day, and learn from @GeorgeLG how he is performing the diagnose. But this is *handy*, that's out of question.
When I was a kid, I remember my father had struggle to find the reason why our old-style carburetor engine hesitates. And it did in a very unsafe situations, like overtaking the cars. It took him a long time to find, that inside of the mechanical fuel pump, membrane driven by a pushrod, the membrane return spring broke into two pieces, which sometimes aligned and it worked, and sometimes they didn't and the engine hesitated. With OBD You have a pretty instant diagnose result.

As for the "pigtail" topic - we're discussing the missing spark, so it's not either a carb nor an injector :)

Well, swapped out the new pigtails; it stated up and drove around a few miles, we'll see how it goes tomorrow.
While I was splicing wires I remote located the ICM over the the by the fender, see if that helps with the "eating" ICM this thing has too.

Working on modern cars can be easy like Mike308 said but you need proper scanning capability. My 275,000 mile Toyota started running like crap this week. Watched live data while driving, saw misfires on #3, swapped cool packs with another cylinder, watch the misfires move with the coil, replaced the coil and were are back at 100%. In this case I even used the Les Myer approved BAFX dongle, used Ebay android tablet and car gauge pro. Pretty minimal investment. left the big gun scanner on the shelf.

George

Oh, I've got the fancy scanners and scopes and jazz, this was showing nothing.
On the bright side, the new pigtails seemed to do the trick, the pins were loose in the connectors and one was corroded.