I'm having a serious battery draw issue! I have located the fuses from which the draw is coming from it is the fuse RDO BAT fuse which I found this thread on https://blazerforum.com/m_150895/mpage_2/key_/tm.htm. The ATC fuse, which could explain why my 4x4 isn't working, I'm going to put a new encoder motor on it hopefully tomorrow. I also have the TBC fuse setting off the test light. I am using a test light between the negative battery terminal and the negative battery cable. I have no clue really what I'm looking for here. Am I on the right direction with replacing the encoder motor? And from what I undersatnd is that the RDO BAT feeds my auto climate control, radio, and instrument cluster. I pulled the radio and climate control module and the light was still lit. I didn't have time to pull the cluster but I'm thinking from the other thread that it might be my instrument cluster. The TBC fuse is making the light glow just a little but I think that is normal because the TBC is hot at all times. I have been chasing my tail for two days with this problem and I have such a big headache from it all! Any advice would be greatly apprciated!!!!



edit: Since my encoder motor for my t-case might be shot would it be worth taking the case apart to do an overhaul on it? I have a small leak from it I have to fill up the gear lube every other month. How much would this cost with parts?

 

The transfer cases are considered non servicable, about the only thing you can easily get the parts for an do at home is changing the input and output shaft seals when needed. Where is the leak in your transfer case?

 

All right I just put in a different cluster and the test light is still on. I have no clue what the problem could be... I also found that the tcase computer module is shorting out. Please help I need this ride and I'm not in the postion to get a new car seeing that I just lost my job!

 

does anyone have any ideas? when I went out on Sunday to make my truck the battery was dead again. I hooked a multimeter up to the positive battery terminal and the positive battery cable and set the meter to 10A I waited for 20 minutes or so for the BCU to shut down and I got a reading of 0.00. Whats going on here am I doing the wrong test procedure? ANY ideas would help me out!

 

10A is HUGE and nothing should take 20 minutes to turn off in the vehicle.

If you have over 5A draw directly after key off, you have a serious problem.

Since I am having trouble reading through your first post, could you break down what testing you have done to determine where the short is? If you unplug the TCCM (passenger kick panel) and/or the transfer case encoder motor, does the draw decrease down to normal levels?

 

The TCC and and Decoder motor are not the ones causing my draw, well there is some but is it acceptable. I hooked my multimeter up to the + terminal of the battery and the + cable. I just did another test about 3 hours ago and I have 0.20 on the multimeter set at 10A. I think my problems may be sloved but now the engine seems to idle rough 1 out of every 10 starts. As I said before I changed out my instrument cluster and everything seems to be working better, the truck started twice out of the past 3 days without any battery problems.

 

.2A (200mA) sounds about right for a just after key-off state. You should not exceed 50mA steady state though or you run the risk of waking up to a dead battery.

 

I think I've got it! After all if was the instrument cluster for some reason. I wanna give thanks to lastcoupe and swartlkk! Bill basically walked me through the whole process and Kyle was there on the follow up on how many amps I should be pulling. I'm knocking on wood right now, everything has been so far so good! Time to move on with a list of stuff before winter hits!