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Howdy,
Recently I've smoked one of my calipers that got stuck. My choice was to get:
-a new one, but I did not know much of available brands, and still remember of those who had problems with fitting the brake pads and other issues
- a remanufactured one, but hey! I can repair it myself
Eventually I have decided to remanufacture the one I have. At least I won't have the problem with its fitting. You may choose any option that is most convenient to You. For those, who decide to follow my route I am dropping the info on how do I carried it out.
The components I've been using (Blazer 4WD LT):
- cylinder seat and boot: Carlson #41160 ($7)
- caliper pin boots: Carlson #16104 ($8)
- caliper guide pins: Raybestos H5069 ($8)
- I didn't use the piston, as I didn't had to, but keep in mind they are composite, may burn badly, so it is worth checking their condition and order if necessary
- a brake lubricant paste (I've been using ATE Brake Cylinder Lubricant) ($1.5)
- a heat resistant paint for brake calipers (unluckily I didn't get the paint for the pistol, but a spray can) ($7)
Total cost: $31
1. Remove the banjo bolt. Prepare some stretch film to wrap it over to secure the brake fluid from leaking. Care not to loose the sealing copper washers.
2. Dismantle the caliper by removing the two caliper mounting bolts located on the inner side.
3. At this step I've secured the inlet of the fluid by an additional bolt, and hand it over to a local shop for blasting in one piece. This is important, You don't want the inner side of the cylinder to be blasted.
4. Once collected, I separated all the parts apart. That is a good moment to check whether the piston gets inside correctly, the caliper cylinder didn't became oval, etc.
As You see, after blasting the surface is clean, free of any rust, dirt, mud and ready for painting. In my opinion blasting saves You lots of wire brush work and gives incomparably better effect. The inner side grooves didn't blast well, as there was a boot there, in time of blasting, but cylinder surface safety first!
5. A painting time!
That is one of the coolest, magic part of the process. An old caliper transforms into something beautiful. Do not worry if You accidentally spray the paint inside. Just use a clean rag and acetone for cleaning.
6. Groove cleaning.
As I said before, the grooves didn't blast well. We have to dig all the dirt that lays in there. This is very important, as the inner seal is not only preventing the brake lubricant from leaking, but also creates a reversal movement of the piston, once the brake is released.
Another very important thing to clean are the caliper guide sockets. And it turned out the dirt laying in there locked & smoked my caliper. For an initial cleaning of the mud assets in there, I've used the 10mm drill, turning it carefully with my fingers (any machine operation may result the damage of the socket surface). I dug pretty much of a dirt out with this operation. Then I've stuffed some steel wool inside, and used the drill & fingers again. At a final stage, I haven't had any honing brush by my hand, so I've used my gun brass brush and done it mechanically at this stage.
7. Seals & boots installation
- Lubricate and set the seal inside its groove. Use Your finger to check if it lays well. Swipe Your finger several times around making sure it landed well.
- Lubricate the inner side of the cylinder.
- Lubricate the piston
- Put the top side of the boot over the edge of the cylinder, leaving the other end loose
- Let the loose end of the boot lay within it's groove. Check carefully around, if it is on place
- Slowly push the piston inside, keeping it in parallel to the cylinder's surface. It may require a bit of the force, but if You have the feeling it got stuck, pull it out and check the seal and boot fitting again. You should get this:
8. Time to put the things back together.
Assemble mounting brake (two nuts 65 N·m 47 lb ft)
9. Tighten one of the guide pin bolts (31 N·m 23 lb ft)
10. Lubricate the caliper pin with the lube, put a new boot on and fit into the bracket with one end. Install the brake pads and their accessories.
10. We are pretty close to and end here. Put the caliper over the brake pads. Lubricate the guide pin, put the new boot and slide it into the bracket. Tighten (31 N·m 23 lb ft)
11. Connect the fluid pin and banjo bolt. Tighten to 54 N·m 40 lb ft.
12. Release the bleeding valve. Push the brake, close the bleeding, release the brake. Repeat over again there are no air bubbles coming out and the brake pedals land as usual. As far, as the bleeding valve is on top, it won't take long. A 2-3 hits are enough.
13. Tighten the bleeding valve with 12 N·m 110 lb in
14. Enjoy!
Last edited by Mike.308; Mar 10, 2019 at 01:49 AM.
Looks good
I cheated when I did mine, found out after i bought the truck, that the rear calipers were both rusted and in-op, so I just did this kit https://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts/pwr-kc2003
Looks good
I cheated when I did mine, found out after i bought the truck, that the rear calipers were both rusted and in-op, so I just did this kit https://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts/pwr-kc2003
That gave me the idea to update my initial post with a cost estimation. Personally I'd go for the kit only if it would offer a higher diameter of the brake disc (=higher braking efficiency).
Rear caliper restoration 4WD
