You might want to take it to a good shop (one that has confidence in taking out frozen fill plugs) before the plug gets too damaged. Your skills are just fine for replacing the cover, but getting out frozen rusty fill plugs can be very tricky and require heat and/or welding. Other option is to go ahead and buy the cover with the fill plug built in.

 

I have the feeling buying the cover with a plug will be significantly cheaper then paying a shop to do it.

Edit: After a quick look on rock auto there is only one size with a drain plug and odds are it isn't mine.

Would a shop even just replace a bolt, and wouldn't they torque it in?

How do I determine which cover I have? If it is the 8.5" then I can get a cover with a plug. And if I got the cover with plug would it still fill the same amount in? It looks like the plug is near the center on of the cover, and therefore would only fill it about half way.

 

To ID the rear look at the tabs below the center section.
https://www.gmbbodyforum.com/t333-ho...8-5-8-75-8-875 Also on the S10/blazer 8.5/8.825 rears the axle tubes go down in size after coming out of the rear. The S10/Blazer 7.5/7.625 tubes stay the same size all the way to the brake backing plates.

The rear does not fill completely with rear end lube. Too much and you'll have it coming out the axle and pinion seals. You simply put a specific amount of lube back in after draining. With the original fill plug, this should be to the level where it just comes out of the hole. With aftermarket covers with drain plug, put the specified amount in and then determine where this is on the cover for future reference (stick your finger in the hole and see where the level is).

Keep looking elsewhere you can find an inexpensive cover with fill plug for the 7.5/7.625 rears. I would have it in hand before taking the old cover off.

Not sure what you are asking about the shop replacing a bolt. But If it's an experienced shop in Michigan, I'm sure they have dealt with rusty frozen stripped drain plugs before.

Good luck and best wishes for a successful repair.

 

What I met by the shop question is a lot of shops use air tools and therefore can use a lot of torque. In my limited experience these said shops would do an oil change and put the oil plug in so darn tight that it is near impossible to remove without an air tool.

I'll take a look at the tabs tonight, crossing my fingers that it is the 8.5" since I know my local parts store sell them with a life time warranty.

Any chance you know where to find the 7.5" with a fill plug. Not finding any online yet. And what is with some of them costing well over $100 and even $200.

 

Going to a friends house tonight with one of my cheap socket extensions to grind it down flat on the tip. Then whack it in with a hammer . If this fails I'll have to get a cover with a fill plug. Still can not find a cover with a built in plug for the 7.5, plenty of 8.5.

 

try heating it up with torch

 

Just when I thought I had enough grip and the filed down socket starts to turn... it lurches and makes a perfect circle .

Biting the bullet and paying the additional $70 to have a shop replace the cover.

 

The shop does know about the now-damaged fill plug and plans to get it out? Not a criticism, I've done exactly the same to a fill plug before myself. A shop WILL charge you extra if the fill plug is damaged.

 

Ya they said if it was undamaged $28 damaged $38 max. Then I asked how much just to do the whole job cover and all and they said $40 if I supply parts. Worse case I have to pay $80. Boy are they going to have fun .

 

Excellent!! You made a good choice. Best wishes!