2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech Discuss 2nd generation S-series (1995-2005) general tech topics here.

Rear drum Extremely hot after driving.

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Old Apr 3, 2014 | 12:26 PM
  #21  
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YOURCONNEXX: The U joint should come out pretty easily...if the caps are rusted to the yoke on the differential, probably a good time to replace the U joints, with this many miles on it....it is actually way past time. U joints are not expensive. And you can rent the large C clamp to press the U joint out in.

Little bit of spray lube and a few taps with a hammer on the yoke...not the U joint, should free it. Tape the other caps to the U joint first before they fall off. I do mean taps....not blows.
 
Old Apr 3, 2014 | 02:14 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by swartlkk
Big pry bar. Try to hold onto the caps that the straps/bolts were holding in on the universal joint as they have small pins inside that are the bearing rollers to keep the u-joint happy. if you lose just one of them, the joint will eat itself and you'll be replacing it. Once you have it out, take some masking tape, duct tape, etc and wrap it around the end to hold the caps on the cross while you are working on the rest of it.
ok... i just wantd to make sure that "forcing it" was ok



well i swapped the bad axel out and the good one is in all hooked up and ready to go

some how some way the driver side parking cable doesnt have nearly enough slack for me to put the brake on. i cant figure out how to get the parking brake back on
 
Old Apr 3, 2014 | 02:15 PM
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thanks LannyL81... worked like a charm
 
Old Apr 3, 2014 | 02:46 PM
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i just read in another thread that to replace the rear axel you have to replace the parking cable??? why???
 
Old Apr 3, 2014 | 04:54 PM
  #25  
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hey guys i just wanted to come back and say thanks. i cant even explain how much this has helped me and money ive saved.

the rear axel is on and it drives great. there are some other issues ive noticed. but nothing major


i really need to get the parking cable on on the drivers side rear wheel. its impossible to get that spring back on there now that it has expanded. is there some kind of trick to that side?? the other side was perfect. but each time i pull the cable out to get the spring around it. it sucks back in and there's no where near enough cable to get it thru there and get it on the actual brake.
 
Old Apr 4, 2014 | 09:11 PM
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Wow, I've never seen such a terrible wheel bearing fail before. Funny how you mentioned the wheel was hot before mentioning the sounds coming from that rear end!!!
 
Old Apr 5, 2014 | 06:57 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by chcknugget
Wow, I've never seen such a terrible wheel bearing fail before. Funny how you mentioned the wheel was hot before mentioning the sounds coming from that rear end!!!
I thought it was coming from the wheel/brake. It was a squeaking and dragging noise. It would go away after bout 2 mins
 
Old Apr 11, 2014 | 08:51 AM
  #28  
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Once again

If anyone can give me any tips or tricks on how to get the drivers side parking brake back on id appreciate it.

It's seems impossible to get the spring over the wire
 
Old Apr 11, 2014 | 10:05 AM
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loosen the adjustment bolt, install cable, then adjust the parking brakes properly?
 
Old Apr 11, 2014 | 02:51 PM
  #30  
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Remove the drum on the passenger side. This will allow you to pull on the driver side cable ferrule, push the spring back, and install the ferrule into the park brake arm. Needle nose or diagonal pliers work well for pushing the spring back.
 
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