Rear Hatch hinge replacement
#1
12-09-2007, 11:22 AM
Rear Hatch hinge replacement
I have a 1997 Jimmy with the lift gate style hatch...no tailgate. This is what I am looking at...the right hinge is really the issue here...it is coming out. Those pins hold in BOTH the window AND lift hatch....so if that pin comes out...NO GOOD!
My plan is to unhook the window shocks and have my dad hold the window while I knock out the pins. The pins are held on by a clip that goes over the bushing it looks like. I don't THINK I am going to need to take off the whole hatch...the window only should do it. Any input would be appreciated if someone thinks that is a bad idea.
My plan is to unhook the window shocks and have my dad hold the window while I knock out the pins. The pins are held on by a clip that goes over the bushing it looks like. I don't THINK I am going to need to take off the whole hatch...the window only should do it. Any input would be appreciated if someone thinks that is a bad idea.
#2
12-19-2007, 09:04 AM
RE: Rear Hatch hinge replacement
Well, my dad came over the other day and we replaced the hinges...fairly simple with a few pain in the butt parts. I have attached the detail of the hatch which lists the parts you are looking at etc, so I will refer to those in this short little DIY...
1) Open the glass hatch and have a helper hold the glass. Unclip the shocks from the hatch, they have some clips that you just press on and they come off. Also unclip the defogger wires.
2) Have a helper hold the glass, preferably someone tall.
3) NOW...if you feel below the head and tip of the pin you will see that there are holes in the metal hatch part. I used tape to tape across these because with my luck SOMETHING would have dropped down there and it would be very difficult if not impossible to get it back if it did.
3) The pins come out fairly easily, you will need to pull the clip, part #3 off of the pin and gently tap it out. I used a pair of pliers on the tip and tapped it with a hammer. Once it started it was easy just to pull it out. Do that on both sides and have the helper pull up on the glass and set it aside.
4) The parts that were damaged on my truck were part #11. Part 11 slides thru one side of the metal tabs on the hatch, truck and glass. It stays in place by use of a clip, Part #10. The clips and the tips of Part 11 were GONE on my truck. Part 11 is a BOOGER to get out. The reason is that the part is painted over and stuck to the tab. The way we got this part of is to take a flat head screw driver and knock the paint off of Part 11. I then took a pair of needle nose vise grips, got a good grip on it and started to move it up and down until it was loose. After that we started GENTLY prying it out with a screw driver. You kind of have to be carefull because the tabs are not all that sturdy and they will easily bend...or break the weld. I had my dad push on the opposite tab so that as I was knocking it the rest of the way back it wasn't putting too much stress on the tab. When you are doing this BE CAREFUL as part number 12, a bushing, can freely move and come out...if you didn't tape above you can loose it forever
...I didn't loose any of them but we almost did a few times.
5) From there you just put everything back together in reverse. This job wasn't that difficult, but you do need a helper.
The detail can be downloaded here http://www.illuminationsfx.com/Jimmy_Hatch.pdf
1) Open the glass hatch and have a helper hold the glass. Unclip the shocks from the hatch, they have some clips that you just press on and they come off. Also unclip the defogger wires.
2) Have a helper hold the glass, preferably someone tall.
3) NOW...if you feel below the head and tip of the pin you will see that there are holes in the metal hatch part. I used tape to tape across these because with my luck SOMETHING would have dropped down there and it would be very difficult if not impossible to get it back if it did.
3) The pins come out fairly easily, you will need to pull the clip, part #3 off of the pin and gently tap it out. I used a pair of pliers on the tip and tapped it with a hammer. Once it started it was easy just to pull it out. Do that on both sides and have the helper pull up on the glass and set it aside.
4) The parts that were damaged on my truck were part #11. Part 11 slides thru one side of the metal tabs on the hatch, truck and glass. It stays in place by use of a clip, Part #10. The clips and the tips of Part 11 were GONE on my truck. Part 11 is a BOOGER to get out. The reason is that the part is painted over and stuck to the tab. The way we got this part of is to take a flat head screw driver and knock the paint off of Part 11. I then took a pair of needle nose vise grips, got a good grip on it and started to move it up and down until it was loose. After that we started GENTLY prying it out with a screw driver. You kind of have to be carefull because the tabs are not all that sturdy and they will easily bend...or break the weld. I had my dad push on the opposite tab so that as I was knocking it the rest of the way back it wasn't putting too much stress on the tab. When you are doing this BE CAREFUL as part number 12, a bushing, can freely move and come out...if you didn't tape above you can loose it forever
...I didn't loose any of them but we almost did a few times.5) From there you just put everything back together in reverse. This job wasn't that difficult, but you do need a helper.
The detail can be downloaded here http://www.illuminationsfx.com/Jimmy_Hatch.pdf
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tmar89
Lighting & Electrical
0
04-23-2013 10:23 AM
Wexinlo
1st Generation S-series (1983-1994) Tech
4
06-08-2012 02:46 PM
global_dev
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
5
04-03-2010 11:07 AM
