rear hatch would not open
#51
New Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 2

I used this site for the first time and it help some what. When I put the screw driver in the hole to slide the lever the lever had fallen all the way to the right and could not get the screw driver behind it. Had to pry the liner away at the corners and while bending the liner up it cracked on top because of the screws in the corners.
Long story short I got it apart and used the hole in the actuator and wire tie to fix it. Works great.
Thanks for your help!
Long story short I got it apart and used the hole in the actuator and wire tie to fix it. Works great.
Thanks for your help!
#52
Starting Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Memphrica
Posts: 1

Alrighty now...He is my prob. Just bought an 02 LS last week. My rear hatch as of a few hours ago will not open. The motor turns when you press either the hatch button located on the dash or the one on the rear door itself yet the glass will not pop out. I checked the fuses and there are two #3 fuses. The one for the locks and windows is fine. Yet the other one(I'm not sure what it goes to) is broken. I am unable to open the door. If anyone could help or even explain how to manually open it so I could take it apart would be great.
#54
98 Blazer
I can hear the tailgate lock solonoid trip when pushing the dash and also the tailgate rear window button...so, Im guessing my back window wont open because the tailgate internal little blue plastic part is probably broken??
I can hear the tailgate lock solonoid trip when pushing the dash and also the tailgate rear window button...so, Im guessing my back window wont open because the tailgate internal little blue plastic part is probably broken??
#56
Starting Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1

Same here, 99 Trailblazer Package - 4 door. Has anyone figured this scenario out? I'm guessing the obvious is a bad push button switch in the tailgate? Corroded due to bad sealing around the switch I assume? Can anyone verify? And if it is a bad switch, how hard is it to replace?
#57
Beginning Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Corning NY
Posts: 37

This issue was happening on my Blazer as well; as aptly described above, it was the blue plastic linkage that was broken. Some fencing wire later tailgate is operating perfectly again. Thanks!
#58
Starting Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1

Not to drag out an old thread but I too am having hatch issues...
I have it apart and the motor and arm are intact and working but not when either the dash, gate, or fob buttons are pressed. However if the the truck is locked with the fob and left for a minute then unlocked the hatch opens upon pressing the fob unlock.
I took the gate apart and read the voltage on the plug to the motor it was 12 volts when truck was unlocked and drops to zero when locked. is this normal?
any ideas? dome light and horn work.
it is a 4 dr 01
thanks
I have it apart and the motor and arm are intact and working but not when either the dash, gate, or fob buttons are pressed. However if the the truck is locked with the fob and left for a minute then unlocked the hatch opens upon pressing the fob unlock.
I took the gate apart and read the voltage on the plug to the motor it was 12 volts when truck was unlocked and drops to zero when locked. is this normal?
any ideas? dome light and horn work.
it is a 4 dr 01
thanks
Last edited by alpine01; 02-05-2012 at 08:31 PM.
#59
New Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 4

Like many others, I could hear the solenoid activate, but the window wouldn't pop open. After peeling back the carpet just below the "hump" (it is really sticky!) and punching out the 1/2"x1" piece of plastic hiding the access hole, I saw what turned out to be the blue plastic piece shown in rmkenny's great picture. I kept pushing it to the left (towards the passenger side) with no success. The window stayed shut! Coming back to the forum, I read someone's suggestion that a yellowish colored lever might have fallen completely to the right (driver's side) and to use a coat hanger to try to retrieve it. I bent the end of a coat hanger into a small hook shape and was able to raise the lever enough to get a screw driver to the right of it and was able to push it to the left. The window popped open!
After getting the tailgate down, removing the cover and removing then the black access panel, I discovered the the end was broken off of the end of the blue plastic connector just before the plastic pin that connects the blue piece to the lever. The broken off portion was laying in the bottom of the tailgate. Although I figured that I would have to go to Chevy for the part, I decided to go to my local auto parts store anyway to see if they might have the part. They didn't have it in stock, but they will have it for me in the morning.
Thanks to rmkenny's for his photo, to the other posters who suggested that the lever might have fallen to the right and to use a clothes hanger to move the lever up from the right! The part only cost $6.97 to buy. Overall, I saved a bunch by reading this thread and not going to the dealer in frustration!
After getting the tailgate down, removing the cover and removing then the black access panel, I discovered the the end was broken off of the end of the blue plastic connector just before the plastic pin that connects the blue piece to the lever. The broken off portion was laying in the bottom of the tailgate. Although I figured that I would have to go to Chevy for the part, I decided to go to my local auto parts store anyway to see if they might have the part. They didn't have it in stock, but they will have it for me in the morning.
Thanks to rmkenny's for his photo, to the other posters who suggested that the lever might have fallen to the right and to use a clothes hanger to move the lever up from the right! The part only cost $6.97 to buy. Overall, I saved a bunch by reading this thread and not going to the dealer in frustration!
Last edited by gmagg; 06-04-2012 at 11:15 PM. Reason: Add picture






