RockAuto has the OEM shocks and yes they are QUITE pricey...well over $100 each!

Mileage was at 130,000 when I changed them.

For the KYB's, actually the Monroe's, I first went to shockwarehouse.com and that is where I decided on the KYB's and ordered them. After two weeks I called them only to find out they were on nation wide back order...according to them. Looked around and found the KYB's in stock at Autoplicity.com and for a bit less, so got them: $214 for the complete set with shipping.

Have I mentioned what a difference the KYB's have made!!!

I could not recommend the OEM's due to their price over the KYB's or another brand's mono tube design. As I stated in my first post, only the RR had leaked, but could easily compress all the other OEM's; must be some internal failure in the valving or something...IDK.

 

Bilstein is the best shock but the stock ones were horrid due to the light valving. Even Bilstein knew the choice GM chose for valving was wrong and they immediately released a heavy duty or sport valving for those that wanted the right Bilsteins. I could not find those for my 2004 4x4 and Bilstein no longer lists them. Easy and cheapest way out is to buy the mono tube KYB or Monroe mono tube Reflex. Hard expensive way is to call Bilstein with shock length and mounting to see what fits in a valving that's acceptable. You may wind up with a 5100 shock. Worth it if you want it right but nobody here has ever researched out the valving? I did that years ago with calls to Deaver for spring rates and Bilstein for valving and have a suspension tune that's used and copied by thousands of jeep owners. Those that moved on to JK's can get a box tuned suspension with the right Deaver Coils and properly valved Bilsteins. We have zero suspension tech for Blazers from my research so just buy one of the highest end shocks from shock depot and be glad they are OK. If you want it right then get a spring rate and spring from Deaver and the right valving from Bilsteins tech line. I've spent thousands over the years on suspension tunes. Dirtbikes cost $650 and desert or sand cars run about $1000. Worth every penny if you do the leg work so I just can't get over that nobody can tell me the right spring rates or valving on a rig know for poor handling and roll overs.

 

I swapped all shocks when I bought my 2004 a few months ago. I did Gabriel air shocks on the rear and Gabriel Max Controls on the front. The front still bounces more than I like over big dips.

What would be a shock with the most control (read stiff) for the front end? Ride quality aside. I do have the torsion bars cranked 1" higher.

 

Stumpalump: explains why the OEM Bilsteins were so soft with no apparent leaking.

Scotter: I think you are going to have to do some measuring of needed shock length with the T-bar crank and search for these. Rancho shocks are probably going to have the increased length. The Gabriels you have on the front are likely for stock height so they are at full extension and fighting the T-bar crank.

 

I was looking at the Rancho RS9000XL with the adjustable damping hoping that would adjust the bounce out.

 

I run a set of those on a 1 ton V10 E350 4x4 van that I use as a tow rig/camper. They work fine if you tinker. Start all the way light on the settings. As in all tuning start with the rear. Increase one click at a time until big dips in the road like G-outs or rail road tracks don't have you blowing thru all of the travel. When it feels like it travels down then comes back up too high you are too light. In other words you set them as stiff as you need for big hits but no more. Similar with tires except you go hard and let air out one pound at a time until you can't feel small cracks in the road then they are set. Keep a guage and keep notes.
Now your S rig still bounces. Guess what's next? Your bouncing in the POS seat GM puts in them. Pop the seat out and slide a few pieces of cardboard or bath towel between the weak sauce seat springs and the worn out foam. Not kidding. The tires suck up cracks and the shocks suck up G-outs. Right in the middle is your seat. You spent all that time and money on the chassis suspension so you might as well tune that 5" of bounce in that seat. I get two seasons out of a seat in the desert rig then it's resprung and refoamed. The terms seat and suspension go hand and hand for a reason. The reason is that they work together. Easy and free mod that makes a huge difference.

 

The rear end is fine as I am running the Gabriel Hi-Jacker air shocks. The seat is fine as well. It's just the front end that still bounces, even when going over speed bumps. The Rancho RS9000's for the front end will be here tomorrow.

 

I would like to know how the Rachos work out. I don't want a super stiff ride but I want it to be a little bit firmer than stock.

 

I'm headed out to Glamis with mine this morning. I like them soft around town but will crank them two clicks in when towing. Don't consider the middle setting the actual middle. Just remember in slows down the rebound and out makes it faster. They only should be set based on what it does after huge bumps and not by how it hits them. If you hit a huge bump and it springs up with authority then go in one click at a time until that just stops. I run duel rate king coil overs on the desert car. I adjust the upper spring rate, the lower spring rate, when the lower kicks in, the compression stack,the rebound stack, the ride height and the nitrogen pressure. They all make a difference. You only have one thing to set as described. Do it as described and the shocks will do what you expect. The number one thing I adjust on every run based on conditions is tire pressure. If it's wet and choppy I run as low as 11 lbs. Super dry and silky smooth I'll run 13.5 psi. Today it's dry and smooth on top but wet underneath so I'll run 13 and 1/4 lbs. yep I set the tires in 1/4 lbs increments once the shocks are set. Funny thing about bounce is blowing thru travel too fast due to light springs will cause it and all the shock tuning in the world won't fix it. A suspension tuner always starts with spring rate. Out of scope for this forum but if the Ranchos don't dial out your bounce without a harsh ride then its not the shocks fault.

 

I also changed my front and rear shocks on my 98 Blazer but I still have that bottoming effect on my front suspension. I have a set of 22-inch wheels on my vehicle but that shouldn't make a difference if someone knows anything about that please help