The connector is not intentionally glued in. There is a TSB that was put out in 2001 that the sealant used melts on some vehicles due to ambient heat and glues the connector. It caused things like no reverse lights or PRNDL lights. Of course GM states to replace the switch if that happens. But you can carefully warm up the connector with a heat gun or micro-torch to get it disconnected. Be careful not to heat damage other components.

I would try to get that disconnected as that can help point you in the direction of the problem. The switch itself possibly being the problem.

 

One thing I might try is to check to see there is any power showing on any of your trailer wiring. There should not be any wires (or pins if you have a tow package installed) showing voltage unless something is activated (brake pedal, turning on lights, etc). If you don't have a tow bar installed, the wires for it are tucked up on the cross member. Probably wire tied or taped.

Use a test light attached to a good ground and touch each wire/pin, test light should not light. Using a DMM would be better in case there is not enough voltage to light the test light. Another way you could check it is with battery connected, pull each "TRL" fuse in the UBEC one at a time to see if the back-up lights go out.

Another question, when your back-up lights are on, are your license plates lights on also?

 

I cut the trailer wires off about 2 years ago because the end was really corroded. I have a new end for it, perhaps I need to look into putting that on this weekend.

 

In that case I would definitely check for any power on those wires. There shouldn't be any with nothing activated. You might even want to replace that one broken fuse. Possibly one of those feed wires got in contact with the frame, you hit the brakes or turned your lights on and the circuit heated up enough to create a short to power with your back-up lights on a constant feed wire. I'm looking at your wiring diagram and can see possibilities. The fuse is supposed to protect your wires, but maybe before it blew it didn't do a good enough job.

 

The ends of the wires are taped and heat shrunk and zip tied up out of the way. However, now is as good a time as any to replace the end. Also 95teal4x4, that is the part I am looking at. I ordered a new one anyway since my gear selector is not always accurate, I have to go past reverse and then back to get into reverse, the same with drive. I know to replace it I have to drop the drive shaft, how hard is that to do? Can I pull it out of the transfer case or will oil go everywhere?

 

No idea why, but my back up lights have stopped staying on and they work correctly. I put one of the bulbs in to start playing with the NSS and they didn't come on. I still plan on replacing the NSS because my indicator on the dash doesn't always line up with what gear I am actually in. The switch was replaced with a junk yard unit a few years ago.

 

They are back on again. I still need to figure out how to get the drive shaft out so that I can replace the NSS on this thing. I have a new one and I have the pigtail for the wiring.

 

I replaced the NSS, no luck, they still stay on. I'll check the trailer wires and if that doesn't work I might have to have a shop look at it.

 

Yesterday I disconnected the new Neutral safety switch and the lights still stay on. I disconnected the battery and then reconnected it and they were off.

 

If the back up lights are still on with the veh b/u fuse removed then the transmission switch is not the problem. If the back up lights are still on with the trailer b/u fuse pulled then the trailer wiring is most likely not the problem. The output from the veh b/u fuse goes to the back up lights via a lt green wire. The only thing on the way is the S309 harness breakout to the day/night mirror system. Let's forget the mirror system for now, please describe the camera system attachment points. Also, please confirm if you see 12v on the lt green wire right at the fuse box on the back up light side. A voltmeter with a needle probe is good for this.

George