RPM surging between 40 and 55 MPH
#11
Yes. It feels like something is dragging like a brake when it does this.
Brakes are not dragging. There is a grinding noise I've been trying to figure out.
https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...-right-102683/
Brakes are not dragging. There is a grinding noise I've been trying to figure out.
https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...-right-102683/
#13
Okaayy. So I learned something new from a video where this guy is going over things to check when there's drive train noise.
The fluid level should only be checked when the engine is hot and running.
That lead me to this video where checking the transmssion fluid in GM trucks isn't as cut and dry as I originally thought.
This whole time I've been checking it each morning cold, not running, and saw the fluid level just above the cold range. So I've been thinking it's definately not low on fluid.
Well, it turns out it actually is low.
I drove it for about 10 minutes today averaging about 15 MPH through my neighborhood trying to get the transmission up to operating temperature. I checked the fluid level while the engine was still running, and saw the fluid level is actually just at the very edge of the dipstick.
I'm guessing low fluid is the cause for both the in/out of overdrive and the noise.
Another thing I notice was steam coming out from the transmission filler tube. Not a lot, but noticeable. Is that a bad thing?
The fluid level should only be checked when the engine is hot and running.
That lead me to this video where checking the transmssion fluid in GM trucks isn't as cut and dry as I originally thought.
This whole time I've been checking it each morning cold, not running, and saw the fluid level just above the cold range. So I've been thinking it's definately not low on fluid.
Well, it turns out it actually is low.
I drove it for about 10 minutes today averaging about 15 MPH through my neighborhood trying to get the transmission up to operating temperature. I checked the fluid level while the engine was still running, and saw the fluid level is actually just at the very edge of the dipstick.
I'm guessing low fluid is the cause for both the in/out of overdrive and the noise.
Another thing I notice was steam coming out from the transmission filler tube. Not a lot, but noticeable. Is that a bad thing?
Last edited by RedValor; 04-20-2021 at 11:19 AM.
#14
Was the steam before or after adding fluid? Wondering if it was burning clutches from being dry, or cooling clutches from sudden cooler fluid hitting the hot plates.
Not sure if its a bad thing or not. But those are my none educated guesses lol
Not sure if its a bad thing or not. But those are my none educated guesses lol
#17
I have had the same RPM increase at 40 - 50 mph on my 2000 ZR2. At first thought the the engine was missing as it kind of felt like it was lurching forward and back. But eventually noticed the RPM surge. Each time it was the start of the transmission going out. Eventually mine started slipping in all gears. The original trans. and 2 add'l. rebuilt did exactly the same thing. I finally had a trans. installed with a lifetime warranty and all has been good so far. Paid about $800 more than than the others but at least I have more than a 90 day or 1 year warranty if there's a problem. Hopefully yours is something simpler and less expensive.
#18
I heard recently on a Saturday morning car talk radio show that the ATF filter really doesn't need to be changed because it generally doesn't clog up. If you find it clogged up, that indicates that there is something seriously wrong with the transmission. IOW it needs more than a simple ATF fluid and filter change. Meaning the clutch plates are wearing out and clogging up the filter. I do want to qualify this by saying that one of this show's sponsors is BG Products, Inc. One of their big services is the automatic transmission complete fluid flush. Their machine flushes 100 % of the fluid out of the transmission without removing the ATF pan. They use the trans cooler lines to flush all the fluid out and don't drop the pan. When you drop the ATF pan and replace the filter and gasket, you are only replacing about half of the ATF fluid. A lot is left in the torque converter.
I do want to say it is hard to remove the filter seal from the GM 4L60E auto trans. This seal is actually a 'O' ring and is way up in the aluminum housing of the transmission. You are using a steel flat blade screwdriver to pry out a small O ring embedded in a aluminum tube. You don't want to scratch that tube and cause leaks. If you don't remove it and put the new one in there and put it on top of the old one, you are causing a problem, You now have two seals installed and it won't seal well and will cause leaks. By leaks, I am referring to air leaks, not transmission fluid leaks. I do think the ATF fluid should be changed regularly.
I do want to say it is hard to remove the filter seal from the GM 4L60E auto trans. This seal is actually a 'O' ring and is way up in the aluminum housing of the transmission. You are using a steel flat blade screwdriver to pry out a small O ring embedded in a aluminum tube. You don't want to scratch that tube and cause leaks. If you don't remove it and put the new one in there and put it on top of the old one, you are causing a problem, You now have two seals installed and it won't seal well and will cause leaks. By leaks, I am referring to air leaks, not transmission fluid leaks. I do think the ATF fluid should be changed regularly.
#19
jim - I have never heard of this filter seal in the 4L60E trans. I have changed the trans filter twice on my '92, once on my '95. Both of these had an O-ring on the filter neck that pushes up into the trans....is this what you are referring to? If so, the O-ring has always come-out with the old filter. Applied some new trans fluid to the new filter O-ring and it easily pushed into place.
Let me know if I have missed something for all of these years.....
Oh and RedValor...be sure to have the Blazer level, trans warmed-up and then with engine running at idle for 2-3 minutes before checking fluid level.
Let me know if I have missed something for all of these years.....
Oh and RedValor...be sure to have the Blazer level, trans warmed-up and then with engine running at idle for 2-3 minutes before checking fluid level.
Last edited by LannyL81; 04-30-2021 at 01:13 PM.
#20
So I did the first tansmission fluid change on this Blazer at 178k miles and installed a new fluid filter. Certainly needed it. The fluid was really dirty, but it didn't feel gritty, so I'm confident the clutch packs aren't worn out.
I drained out about 4 quarts. The maintance seciton in my Chilton manual says it needs 5 quarts for a fluid change. So I was terribly low on fluid. Now that I know how to properly check it, that won't happen again. I thought "cold" on the dip stick litterally mean't cold.
I've been out on a few test drives with 5 quarts of clean transmission fluid, and the truck is doing alright. Shifts are smooth and there's no slippage. Also, the RPM isn't doing that weird surge/spiking behavior it was doing before trying to go into 4th gear but it felt like it wasn't staying. I now know the hard way that's what these transmissions will do on low fluid.
Last thing: I'm concerned about what the max fluid capacity is for these transmission. After each outting when I return home, with the Blazer still running, in the garage, on level surface, I check the fluid level on the transmission. I added 5 quarts after the fluid change. Today after driving it, I still don't see fluid on the dip stick (doing the procedure for a hot check). I added another cup of transmission fluid, so now it's at 5 1/4 quarts of added fluid. I gave it another test drive this afternoon, did a hot check, and still don't see any fluid on the dip stick. I feel like I'm going to be at 6 or 7 quarts of added fluid before I see a hot check result. Does this seem normal?
I drained out about 4 quarts. The maintance seciton in my Chilton manual says it needs 5 quarts for a fluid change. So I was terribly low on fluid. Now that I know how to properly check it, that won't happen again. I thought "cold" on the dip stick litterally mean't cold.
I've been out on a few test drives with 5 quarts of clean transmission fluid, and the truck is doing alright. Shifts are smooth and there's no slippage. Also, the RPM isn't doing that weird surge/spiking behavior it was doing before trying to go into 4th gear but it felt like it wasn't staying. I now know the hard way that's what these transmissions will do on low fluid.
Last thing: I'm concerned about what the max fluid capacity is for these transmission. After each outting when I return home, with the Blazer still running, in the garage, on level surface, I check the fluid level on the transmission. I added 5 quarts after the fluid change. Today after driving it, I still don't see fluid on the dip stick (doing the procedure for a hot check). I added another cup of transmission fluid, so now it's at 5 1/4 quarts of added fluid. I gave it another test drive this afternoon, did a hot check, and still don't see any fluid on the dip stick. I feel like I'm going to be at 6 or 7 quarts of added fluid before I see a hot check result. Does this seem normal?