^^ what he said. But be VERY careful. I can't stress that enough. I've burned my share of eyebrows off doing it with ether. And propane obviously is flammible as well.

 

Yes it does break it down per cylinder. I'm going to upload 8 photos I just took off the scanner. I found these the most interesting. Tell me what you think. Also,I will try the propane idea. I also have starter fluid. Based on how I interpreted how the scanner explained the the EVAP and how it works I think it may be a potential problem.

 

baised on the fact there is no load,houldn't it be off?




Here is the misfire. It's weird how when I read the codes I got p0300 but when I went deeper into the settings and chose"freeze frame" it showed p0302(this is where the misfire is)but said this vehicle does not support that code.

 

So it's all on cylinder 2... Have you done a compression test? Or an injector balance test?

 

No compression test. I am not sure how to do that. I do not know what an injector balance test is either. I can ask my mechanic friend. He is pretty useful. What do you think about EVAP reading?

 

I really don't think it is related.

One thing that may be related is that your cam retard is -10. That should be set at zero for the longest life out of your distributor gear, cap, & rotor. To set it to zero, you need to loosen the hold down bolt & move the distributor (not twist it really, but there is play where the distributor goes through the lower intake manifold).

 

So can I just pull the distributor straight out to inspect the gear? I know on my 78 TA its a pretty straight forward process. Biggest thing is to make sure I am not 180 off and then adjust timing after that. I have new injectors,AC Delco plugs,wires,cap and rotor. Wouldn't a warn distributor gear throw all cylinders off? I'm just thinking out loud. So if I'm way off just tell me.

 

It's worth a look. I'm not saying that is your problem, but the bushings might be and could cause a single cylinder problem if it is sticking only at one point or has a preferential direction of play. You have to reset the cam retard anyway.

But I would still recommend checking the compression on #2 and comparing that to the rest of the motor. An injector balance test is a test performed with a scan tool, monitoring the fuel pressure drop as each injector is cycled and comparing the final pressures, cylinder to cylinder.

 

My buddy is bringing a compression gauge home after work. So I will be able to check that later. As far as an injector balance test goes,I can't find on this scan tool where it shows that. Would it be called something else?

I did the propane test and then used the starter fluid. No change in idle at all. Here is what plug in cyl #2 look like. They were all replaced two weeks ago. Ac Delco.




I'm going to go set my cam to 0.

 

I don't know where the option for running an injector balance test would be in anything but a Tech2 & in my AutoEnginuity scan tool. With both, the option is relatively easy to access. What it does is cycles the selected injector at/for a predetermined rate/time. Once it's done with one injector, the pressure drop is noted separately by the operator and the test repeats again after you have reprimed the fuel system by cycling the pump on & off.

Get the compression checked, test the plug & wire to the #2 cylinder, and maybe do a cylinder leak down test as well if the compression test shows problems with that cylinder when compared with the others.

I would suspect the porcelain to be slightly tan colored all around even after only a few weeks of operation. That plug almost looks like it has been steam cleaned on one side which could be caused by a coolant leak into the cylinder via either a bad head gasket or bad lower intake manifold gasket. How does it's color/condition compare with the other cylinders?