Hi guys,

Been away for a while because I sold the Blazer to my father.

He has a problem with car running bad and when the C.E-light lights up it starts knocking.

Reading the codes gave indication of a bad EGR valve.

The problem is that the ones we've tested haven't been the seem model of EGR. So, my question is, how do I identify the EGR valve, none of the numbers on the valve itself seems to help for identification.

Is there any good guide of cleaning the valve as a last desperate test before buying a new one. The cost for a new is almost $550...

Thanks in advance

Regards Magnus

 

What have you been pulling EGR valves off of to test? There really aren't multiple designs...

As far as a cleaning guide, did you look and/or search for one? It's in the Tech Article (DIY) section. You can find the index link in a few locations like my signature below.

 

We have tried some one or two (I wasn't involved) with the car but without any improvement. One probably is from a '99, it looks different.
Any some we have found had another electrical connector.

My idea now is to test the clean it again becuase I don't know how careful it was done last time. If it doesn't help I think we will order a new one from US, but then we want the right one from start so we don't need to return it back to US. Will check your link.

This is the numbers I've found on it, but I see number with more digits when check with a retailer:

On the electrical connector

C0977A
219711

On the end of the EGR
96309
10872

Regards Magnus

 

Hello Mange,

If my map/math skills are correct. You are some where near Horby, Sweden.
Nice to see that a S10 is up around those parts.

You can cross reference your parts at this website to make sure
you are getting the correct item. Not sure if they ship overseas.

RockAuto Parts Catalog

Should be this Item.

DELPHI Part # EG10026

or

ACDELCO Part # 2141080

Try Ebay but look to make sure that you are getting one of these manufacturers.

I believe the Delphi was the OEM part.

Good Luck.

Mark K

 

Hi Mark,

That's exactley where I'm located

I've contacted RockAuto for details about shipping to Sweden.
My brother usually orders from Summit via some Swedish retailer but even if I've never ordered from RockAuto I like them.

Regards Magnus

 

Hi again

I got the EGR from RockAuto and mounted it yesterday.
No success!
It runs better with the egr connector disconncted than connected.

It doesn't rev as it should, full throttle means 4k-4,5k rpm in neutral.
When driving it doesn't rev more than about 2k-2,5k rpm.
The smoke is black when reving heavy.

We still get a code that says something like "egr valve position circuit failure".

Our ideas is now, fuel distribution problem, air problem, ignition problem (coil) or the cat is full of ****.

Any good guesses?

Regards Magnus

 

Hi again.

After some checking and testing with my obd, elm327, it seems to be the maf sensor. At full throttle I recieve at max 50 grams from the maf sensor.

So I guesst I have to order a new. But, I want some input on the cheapest at RockAuto manufactured by Delphi. Is it good?
The design is very different from the originial.
Is there any differences between 2dr and 4dr as it appears in some shops?

Thanks in advance!

Regards Magnus

 

I think you ought to investigate that clogged cat/exhaust before you dish out money for the MAF.
Watch your MAP at cruise ..say.. 60km/hr should be about .4bar or less
The low MAF reading, black smoke plus EGR status is the tipoff. In the old days a vacuum gauge was used for all sorts of diagnoses.. my guess is you have huge backpressure.
You COULD just crawl under and unbolt/cutbolt the cat from the y pipe.

 

Thank you! I will look into it.
This is from an early run, the speed is about 20 kph.

 

Well, cant tell anything from O2 data.. except they are working.. I note that neg {lean} peaks are 'smoothed' but I wouldnt go by that.

Yep, your flow rate looks low for a WOT goose but also notice your rate at base idle, looks right.. if 8 is right for 750 rpm.. and AA1 car says it's upper normal range.