Smell of Mixed Refrigerant, R12 /w 134R
#1
08-22-2018 | 08:36 AM
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From: Timmins, Ontario
Smell of Mixed Refrigerant, R12 /w 134R
Bone head of a move and Ill be honest, Had a bottle of R12 in the garage and the Jimmy needed it, So I read that you could mix the 2, after refilling and charging the system only to realize that you can mix only when one has been vacuumed out and refilled with the other. Yes I know a bonehead move... so I took it to the shop had them discharge the system run a vacuum and replace the A/C Condenser. they recharged the system and now i have Cold air with a bad smell.
The smell was present as soon as the R12 was mixed with 134R,
The smell is still present even after the recharge. also when the air is not on due to the auto cycle of the air conditioner....
How do I remove the Smell?
Anyone else do a bone head move like this and want to admit it?
Thanks for all the help
The smell was present as soon as the R12 was mixed with 134R,
The smell is still present even after the recharge. also when the air is not on due to the auto cycle of the air conditioner....
How do I remove the Smell?
Anyone else do a bone head move like this and want to admit it?
Thanks for all the help
#2
08-22-2018 | 11:02 AM
BF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 4,309
From: Florida
What smells, the air coming out of the vents? If that is in fact related to the refrigerant mixing then you have a leak in your evaporator which will need to be dealt with?
if I understand what happened, you put R12 into a system that was originally R134a? R12 as well as other older refrigerants were banned because of the chlorine component of the molecules. Chlorine is not compatible with at least one of the two lubrication oils used for R134a. In the presence of moisture (which you may have due to a leak), R12 and PAG oil forms acid. Also, the wrong combination prevents the oil from moving properly through the system. This is a very confusing subject because some brands of PAG oil are reputed to not have this problem. It’s also not clear how long it takes for this process to occur.
Another thing to to consider is that none of this is happening and that the issue is that you got a moldy evaporator working again which involves moisture and then a moldy smell which can smell like dirty socks or cat urine. If you hold pressure after the recharge then this is more likely.
if however, the system is now contaminated then you will most likely see this as a foul smelling and/or gummy slime at the orifice tube. If you ever have this system open again, take a look at the orifice tube. If this is the case then everything needs to be taken apart and flushed with the filter dryer replaced.
How long was R12 in the system?
George
if I understand what happened, you put R12 into a system that was originally R134a? R12 as well as other older refrigerants were banned because of the chlorine component of the molecules. Chlorine is not compatible with at least one of the two lubrication oils used for R134a. In the presence of moisture (which you may have due to a leak), R12 and PAG oil forms acid. Also, the wrong combination prevents the oil from moving properly through the system. This is a very confusing subject because some brands of PAG oil are reputed to not have this problem. It’s also not clear how long it takes for this process to occur.
Another thing to to consider is that none of this is happening and that the issue is that you got a moldy evaporator working again which involves moisture and then a moldy smell which can smell like dirty socks or cat urine. If you hold pressure after the recharge then this is more likely.
if however, the system is now contaminated then you will most likely see this as a foul smelling and/or gummy slime at the orifice tube. If you ever have this system open again, take a look at the orifice tube. If this is the case then everything needs to be taken apart and flushed with the filter dryer replaced.
How long was R12 in the system?
George
#3
08-22-2018 | 12:19 PM
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From: Timmins, Ontario
R12 was in the system for 3 days = 300Km, then had shop discharge and recharge with appropriate 134R. the condenser was re[placed due to small hole. I was thinking the orifice was the issue but that would mean discharge and recharge with replacement of new orifice.
I was thinking that residue built up in the syustem from the mix and that caused the smell...
So to solve the issue :
Flush
Replace Orifice
Replace Dryer
Recharge?
Thanks for the help
I was thinking that residue built up in the syustem from the mix and that caused the smell...
So to solve the issue :
Flush
Replace Orifice
Replace Dryer
Recharge?
Thanks for the help
#4
08-22-2018 | 12:31 PM
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New Member
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 54
From: Timmins, Ontario
The smell is not of Dirty socks or cat urine but I want to think Chemical...
When the mix happen I noticed the windows would fog like crazy and had to drive with the heat on to clear the windows.
It left a substance on the inside of the window.
I wasnt sure of it due to the fact that A/C is a closed system...
When the mix happen I noticed the windows would fog like crazy and had to drive with the heat on to clear the windows.
It left a substance on the inside of the window.
I wasnt sure of it due to the fact that A/C is a closed system...
#6
08-23-2018 | 07:23 AM
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From: Timmins, Ontario
That is what I thought and have been paying attention to it but No wetness.
I thought it was a weird coincidence that the heater core would go when all that was touched was the A/C.
There is no wetness under the dash, and I still have heat and a good amount of heat... I cant find or see any drips under the car either....
Still confused about this....
I thought it was a weird coincidence that the heater core would go when all that was touched was the A/C.
There is no wetness under the dash, and I still have heat and a good amount of heat... I cant find or see any drips under the car either....
Still confused about this....
#9
08-23-2018 | 11:07 AM
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New Member
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From: Timmins, Ontario
Thats what I thought about the gas, Its a closed system... doesnt make sense...
the shop applied a vacuum and it held after replacing the condenser.
what would I be looking for when I spray the engine area?? or where should i be focusing my attention?
I appreciate the help.
the shop applied a vacuum and it held after replacing the condenser.
what would I be looking for when I spray the engine area?? or where should i be focusing my attention?
I appreciate the help.
#10
08-23-2018 | 04:22 PM
BF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 4,309
From: Florida
Engine off: spray all connections, fittings, valve caps, hose to pipe transitions, around the compressor body, etcand look for bubbles.
My guess is that your problem is your heater core or mold on your evaporator.
George
My guess is that your problem is your heater core or mold on your evaporator.
George
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