Starting Issue, Tried most everything. And steering problem.
Problem: 2001 Blazer wont start.
The truck randomly will not start, and it randomly will. I've seen no pattern to this. Once running, it will stay running until you shut it off. No other real problems except CEL for the emissions, and thermostat which im replacing. I've replaced the crank sensor, as that was my first guess. I'm in the process of replacing the cap and rotor right now. It has less than 1k miles on the new fuel pump, and I tested all the relays I could find.
Other than this, she runs great. Well other than the steering gear box play, any quick fix to that? I thought it was tie-rods but I tracked the play all the way to the box.
Quick help would be apprecaited, my girlfriend needs this running for work/college.
Edit: I'm noticing a pattern that if i let it sit for roughly 10 minuets after it will not start, it fires up like it just rolled off the lot. However, this is a cold and hot start problem.
The truck randomly will not start, and it randomly will. I've seen no pattern to this. Once running, it will stay running until you shut it off. No other real problems except CEL for the emissions, and thermostat which im replacing. I've replaced the crank sensor, as that was my first guess. I'm in the process of replacing the cap and rotor right now. It has less than 1k miles on the new fuel pump, and I tested all the relays I could find.
Other than this, she runs great. Well other than the steering gear box play, any quick fix to that? I thought it was tie-rods but I tracked the play all the way to the box.
Quick help would be apprecaited, my girlfriend needs this running for work/college.
Edit: I'm noticing a pattern that if i let it sit for roughly 10 minuets after it will not start, it fires up like it just rolled off the lot. However, this is a cold and hot start problem.
Last edited by MerCiLeSS; Jun 19, 2009 at 06:27 PM.
Well I got the cap and rotor off, the tab on the rotor where the coil wire electrode from the cap rides had a hole worn through it, the cap itself had a hole on the electrode. Since i cannot replicate the no start problem, you guy believe this is what caused it? I know this was a major problem, but causing a random no-start is still fishy.
Last edited by MerCiLeSS; Jun 19, 2009 at 10:07 PM.
There are 5 main contacts inside the ignition switch. Only one of them deals with the starting system. Two are the main power sources for the engine and major systems in the vehicle. If any one of the two main power contacts gets corrosion or burns out a bit, it can cause some very odd things to happen.
Is this switch completely enclosed with rivets? or can I take her apart and hit it with a emery cloth?
On a side note, have a look at this rotor... this is one for the books!
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/5057/imag0030c.jpg
On a side note, have a look at this rotor... this is one for the books!
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/5057/imag0030c.jpg
Last edited by MerCiLeSS; Jun 20, 2009 at 12:27 PM.
I have one disassembled on my work bench right now (along with about 6 other projects). This is not something that you want to take apart if you need it to work again. You have to break some plastic covers loose to get it apart in the first place, but after that, there are a few lite springs and then one really stiff one. Take the thing apart too much and you will never get it back together.
For the $50 or so that a new ignition switch costs, it is just better and easier to get a new switch.
For the $50 or so that a new ignition switch costs, it is just better and easier to get a new switch.




