OK, so this will be my real first post. Let me explain EVERYTHING so far, so u tech money guys can holla back. I'm gonna try to explain all the details (probably too many), and maybe this will help other peeps out.

I gots a 2001 Chevy Blazer LS / Auto / 4wd from a local auction with 80,000 miles on it.

I checked all the fluids, everything looks real clean, it starts right up 1 try everytime, the only problem was the previous owners had mad dogs, and I had to do a HUGE detailin job on it. IT STUNK LIKE WET DOG!! It still lingers a lil, if anyone has ideas to help with the smell, hit me up.

As I drove it for a few days, I heard light rumbling sounds from the front right (passenger) side. I kinda felt like it was the tire. Then I noticed that it increased when I turned the wheel to the left. So if I turned the wheel right, the sound would go down.

That's when I found this hot forum. FB is fire!! I found a few helpful posts, so I knew that it was my front right wheel hub assembly. There was even detailed instructions and pics how to do it. (THANKS Hanr3)

So since I think all mechanics are scumy, I started calling EVERYWHERE to get prices & labor. EVERYONE was saying something different. I just knew that Autozone & Advance Auto parts had what I needed for around $185.00. And from all my research the job should take no more than 1.5 hours. (It should really be less)

So after getting some quotes like: Tire Kingdom $325.00, Goodyear $578.00, Tires Plus $275.00, & at an actual Chevy Delearship $560.00. That **** is CRAZY, but I started to think what brand where they using & what kinda warranty to I get?!?!

So Goodyear & Chevy both obviously wanted to use the oem part, which of course is AC Delco. The truth is some of the aftermarket parts are probably BETTER, but I don't know much about this stuff. (I work in the optical field LOL)

So I found online http://www.gmpartsdirect.com which is amazing prices for AC Delco & whatever CHEVYS use. So I coulda just ordered the real part for around $211!!! Just like an aftermarket brand at Autozone or Advanced Auto. But then shipping made it around $260.00.

So with that in mind I found a local mechanic and started talkin with him, I gave him a list of ALL my probs with the blazer. I'll list those probs in another post, I'm sure all of you could help more than the scumy mechanic.

So he wanted to charge like $385.00 using a brand called BCA or something like that. I ended up talking him down to $305.00 in cash AND he used an AC Delco part. So my question to u is how do I REALLY know if he used an AC Delco wheel hub assembly??

Needless to say when I got it back, all the lil probs I told him about he didn't fix (AND I KNOW HE REALLY DIDN'T EVEN TRY) But the wheel hub assembly is perfect, NO NOISE!!!

So I'm all happy with that part of my ride. BUT LATER THAT NIGHT............

I took my G/F out to dinner a lil far away. We ate, watched the Gators win the National Title (even though I'm a UM fan) As I go to start my blazer, IT DOESN"T START!! Just clicks. As mentioned earlier IT ALWAYS STARTED PERFECT ON 1 TRY!!!!

So I waited a minute & tried again. NOTHING! My lights turn on, everything is normal, but it will not turn over, I just hear the clicking. I tried about 10-15 times.

So I checked:
1) all the fuses & battery terminals, everything looked fine.
2) I even rolled a lil bit to see if it was just a bad spot on my starter.
3) I tried starting in neutral.
4) Someone even offered to jump start it, but I didn't think that would work. (He said the extra juice might make my solenoid pop or something) That didn't work either.

 

That's quite a story about your blazer. I'm not so sure about a lot of that but maybe I can help in one or two things. With the dog smell inside, there's two things that I know can help. If you buy a big bag of Arm & Hammer Baking Soda from Walmart for about $6 and mix it with warm water. You can spray it out of a spray bottle or use a rag and bucket. Scrub it into your carpet, seats, anywhere cloth that you think stinks. Not too wet, then leave the car open and let it dry, otherwise you'll trade dog for mildew. Baking soda is safe for cleaning and it kills most odors quick. Maybe test itin an inconspicuious areafirst, but I've never heard of BakingSoda causing any kind of damage or discoloration. If you have spots in your upholstery you can make a paste with baking soda and water and rub the paste into it, let it sit, then scrub out and let dry. It will take out most easy stains. Soda, coffee, mud, I don't know about grease or oil. If the smell continues buy a huge bottle of Febreeze and get wild with it.
With your starter, your soledoid could be locking up and it can happen at random times, like resturaunt parking lots. Usually if they lock up it will kill everything electrical untill it's free.But this is worth a try. Turn off the key, get under there and find your starter. Find something to hit it with and then bang against the back end of it a few times. Try to start it again. The banging will usually knock it loose and let it start. Itis possible you'vegot a loose wire or connection or some corrosion on a contact. If you had a pinched or broken wire you should have a more consistent problem followed by a blown fuse. Good luck with the blazer and welcometo the forum.

 

Dam you write a lot man.... That starting problem you're having is due to a bad starter. Replace it and you'll be straight.

Where in Miami you at? I'm in Hialeah.

Jovani

 

Actually, I would start by removing the battery cables from the battery and cleaning the terminals. Tighten the cables back down and see how that goes. From there, you can have the battery tested to ensure that it is good (a cracked plate can do funny things). The original AC Delco batteries are known for corrosion inside the battery that will affect the positive post. If you see any acid leaking out of your battery, get it replaced ASAP.

It is possible that there is a bad spot in the starter where it just doesn't have to torque to get itself moving.

Only other thing I can think of is the beginnings of a faulty ignition control module. I've never had it happen, but I have read a lot of symptoms from people that have and they are all very similar to this.

 

The reason the quotes is so high is that very few repair places replace the hub assembly like I posted here. Even the Haynes manual has you do it a different way. With the right tools and a lift I can replace a hub assemble in about 45 minutes. Time I pick up the work order to the time I wash my hands and drive it back out of the shop.

Could be a starter, bad connection, or the ignition key modual. Did the security light come on when the truck didn't start?

 

I think if it's done at a dealer the hub assy has a lifetime guarantee. plus they charge like $75.00 labor hour...

 

I'm exhausted from reading that post!
I'm glad your wheel bearing is fixed.
Your starter sounds like it starts when it's cold and not when it's hot. I'm thinking replace the starter because there must be a problem with the wiring inside that has to do with heat and expansion and contraction.
I don't know, start it cold, see if it starts easy, then take it for a drive (and get home before you shut it off), then try to start it 5 or 10 minutes later....

 

Tryin to refocus my eyes after that novel......................

I would start checking the touch temp of your starter relay. Or any relay that has to deal with the starter function.

It seems that the longer you run it the more likely it is not to start. Could also be as swartlkk stated "faulty ignition control module" They are known to show the same signs when they over heat.

Good luck