im trying to get the driver side seat out of my 02 jiommy 2dr and im snapping t50 bits like its goin out of style... i snapped 2 bits today and 2 a couple days ago.
only one of the 4 was a average quality one, the others have lifetime warranty on them so im going to return them.

i snapped one... then soaked it in penetrating oil
snapped another... bought a better bit. soaked in more oil
snapped that... bought another one.
heated it up, got it to move a very little, then snapped that one.

any ideas? this thing is a SOB.
i need to get the seat out so i can get the tilt handle rod welded back together and a new handle fabed on...nothing fancy just functional.

tomorrow im checking again for a impact T50 and im going to heat her up and hit it with the gun if i find a stronger one but its doubtful because thats what i was looking for today.

is there a lock nut somewhere on this bolt? this is on the back rail closest to the armrest on the driver side.

 

Try shocking it good with a few blows with a hammer.

 

ill give that a try too.

i forgot to mention, this is the one that threads into the car and the threads stick out underneath, they are rusted but not to the point that these torques socket bits should be snapping like this.

 

do like Kyle said. put a half decent size extension on your torx bit, and give it a good beating with a good size mallet or ball peen hammer.



remember, you're pissed off that it's not coming off, and it already broke 4 bits on you. so use your frustration!

 

i found some impact 1 piece t50 bits on ebay, no local shops have them, but i have 1 more im going to check on monday, by the time i was off work today they were closed. hopefully these can withstand the pressure im putting on it. also 3 of the t50s i bought have lifetime warranty so im just going to return them...none of them had a load spec on them or i would have used my torque wrench so i wouldnt pass it.

we pulled out the tap and die and used it to clean up the few threads that are sticking out under the truck, i dont know if it will be much help but we will see.

 

GOT IT!! that has to be the toughest bolt i have ever got off that didnt even look damaged. im going to clean it up clean the threads on the cars section as well and probably just reuse it but put some anti seize on it.
i managed to find a t50 that is for a impact gun, so putting a prybar on it didnt snap it.

no i just got to find out if the leaver can be welded on or if i have to replace the whole seat, either way it needed to come out....really dont want to buy a seat....

 

Those body bolts can be a real bear. Glad you got it out.

 

i really hope you didn't run a tap through the floor hole.


you do know those bolts are triangular shaped for a reason, right?

 

My dad sent this to me a while back. I don't remember where he got it, probably a friend who got it from another friend. Anyway if you're having trouble with rusted bolts or bolts that one budge...

Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. The results are as follows;
Penetrating oil..... Average load
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50-50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.


EDIT: I was going to post this info in the Tech Articles section (seemed like the proper place to me, if not please suggest otherwise) but I got the following message:

degaine_designs, you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons:

Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?
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I don't...why is that?