Tips for Torsion key and shackle lift?
Tips for Torsion key and shackle lift?
[1996 4WD Blazer ] Hey I know this has been gone over several times and I've read a lot of articles but I myself, not knowing everything about suspension yet, am a little confused. So I'll be installing these shackles
and am confused on the torsion key part. So how far should I turn these torsion keys, which way, and how do I know what they're at now? Just wanna get the max lift with the shackles without having to replace the ball joints and or CV axles all the time. (and being able to be aligned would be great). Once again sorry for asking this even though it's been discussed several times.
Last edited by Americannoli; Jul 5, 2020 at 01:18 AM.
BF Guru
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 5,610
From: Moscow, ID
Even with only a torsion bar cranked, you will wear out your upper ball joints faster unless you install after market upper control arms.
Installing new torsion bar keys allows for greater lift at the front but depending on how much lift you desire, they may not be needed. For my lift, I would say I am at the threshold maybe needing new torsion bar keys.
Regarding the CV axles, my failure point was that the inner lip of the inner CV joint boot slipped off. Fortunately it is not hard to replace these boots with the axles out. I would recommend the newer style neoprene ones as they are more flexible. This also gives you a chance to pack them with fresh grease.
As a starting point for one way to do a less agressive lift, look at mr build thread.
Good luck!
Installing new torsion bar keys allows for greater lift at the front but depending on how much lift you desire, they may not be needed. For my lift, I would say I am at the threshold maybe needing new torsion bar keys.
Regarding the CV axles, my failure point was that the inner lip of the inner CV joint boot slipped off. Fortunately it is not hard to replace these boots with the axles out. I would recommend the newer style neoprene ones as they are more flexible. This also gives you a chance to pack them with fresh grease.
As a starting point for one way to do a less agressive lift, look at mr build thread.
Good luck!
Even with only a torsion bar cranked, you will wear out your upper ball joints faster unless you install after market upper control arms.
Installing new torsion bar keys allows for greater lift at the front but depending on how much lift you desire, they may not be needed. For my lift, I would say I am at the threshold maybe needing new torsion bar keys.
Regarding the CV axles, my failure point was that the inner lip of the inner CV joint boot slipped off. Fortunately it is not hard to replace these boots with the axles out. I would recommend the newer style neoprene ones as they are more flexible. This also gives you a chance to pack them with fresh grease.
As a starting point for one way to do a less agressive lift, look at mr build thread.
Good luck!
Installing new torsion bar keys allows for greater lift at the front but depending on how much lift you desire, they may not be needed. For my lift, I would say I am at the threshold maybe needing new torsion bar keys.
Regarding the CV axles, my failure point was that the inner lip of the inner CV joint boot slipped off. Fortunately it is not hard to replace these boots with the axles out. I would recommend the newer style neoprene ones as they are more flexible. This also gives you a chance to pack them with fresh grease.
As a starting point for one way to do a less agressive lift, look at mr build thread.
Good luck!
BF Guru
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 5,610
From: Moscow, ID
The Rough Country upper control arms are a bolt-in replacement. You do have to be careful of how you route your ABS sensor wire and brake lines. The Super-Lift upper control arms I think require a slight modification to the mounting point for the upper end of the shock absorber. Check out my build thread for the link to my write-up on my suspension lift.
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Tommyboy8299
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Jan 16, 2013 01:39 PM
