Trans oil cooler
#3
Imperial Maxi-Cool XL #243012 http://www.haydenauto.com/upload/Hay...il-coolers.pdf
Fits perfectly on the right, (passenger) side of the hood latch support. Must remove the grille, (10 minutes) to install the cooler. Make up four small brackets to attach it to the radiator core support. Cut the steel lines before they head toward the radiator, and attach ATF rated hose and good clamps. If you totally eliminate, (bypass) the original factory cooler in the radiator, trans fluid temp runs ~60F above ambient temp. Also helps the radiator cool the engine coolant.
Fits perfectly on the right, (passenger) side of the hood latch support. Must remove the grille, (10 minutes) to install the cooler. Make up four small brackets to attach it to the radiator core support. Cut the steel lines before they head toward the radiator, and attach ATF rated hose and good clamps. If you totally eliminate, (bypass) the original factory cooler in the radiator, trans fluid temp runs ~60F above ambient temp. Also helps the radiator cool the engine coolant.
#4
Beginning Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: phoenix, az
Posts: 29

trans cooler is a great idea here in az. but dont go so big that you block off too much flow over the radiator and condensor. when the temps start to hit 110+ you may see a rise in your normal operating temp and your a/c output temp rise a few degrees. sucks living in an oven.
#5
I installed an aux cooler a few years back, forget what kind. When I installed mine there was a bit of a question as to how to install it. Have the fluid pass through the aux cooler before the radiator cooler or after?
Being as I live in the deep south I chose after. Once I move back to CO I may reverse them. Too cool can be almost as damaging as too hot.
Something to think about depending on where you live.
Being as I live in the deep south I chose after. Once I move back to CO I may reverse them. Too cool can be almost as damaging as too hot.
Something to think about depending on where you live.
#6
The OE cooler will keep the trans fluid very close to engine coolant temp, ~198F. If you install the add-on cooler before the OE cooler, trans fluid will be heated to ~198F before being sent to the trans. This totally defeats the purpose of the add-on cooler. Installing the cooler after the OE cooler you can expect ~168F to ~178F. Eliminating the OE cooler, trans temp will be ~60F above ambient temperature. Valvoline Maxlife Dexron VI fluid functions properly to -54F.
#7
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 1,579

I am going to completely eliminate the radiator connection. The radiator is leaking from the plastic tanks (again) so was going to add the trans cooler at the same time as when I replace the radiator (again).
Instead of cutting the trans fluid lines going to the radiator are there adapters that would connect to these fittings and then have a hose barb on the other side? Hopefully I am making sense here. I have not really taken a good look but I would think it is going to be difficult to get the flare tools in there, so was thinking using an adapter would make installation easier.
Instead of cutting the trans fluid lines going to the radiator are there adapters that would connect to these fittings and then have a hose barb on the other side? Hopefully I am making sense here. I have not really taken a good look but I would think it is going to be difficult to get the flare tools in there, so was thinking using an adapter would make installation easier.
#8
If your concern is the ability to go back to OEM configuration: After you cut the steel lines, save them. You can always reinstall them and use ATF rated rubber line to splice them back together. As for room, once the oil filter access shield is removed, there's actually a fair amount of room to access the lines.
#9
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 1,579

No real concern about going back to OEM; plan on keeping the Blazer until either it or I am no longer able to drive.
Question with regards to putting a small flare onto the steel lines to aid in the rubber lines sealing, is the idea here to start a single flare or a double flare?
Question with regards to putting a small flare onto the steel lines to aid in the rubber lines sealing, is the idea here to start a single flare or a double flare?
#10
Starting a flare would be insurance. Another option is put a compression fitting on the line, tighten it down to compress the ferrule to the line, then discard the compression union. The ferrule will act as a barb. If you clean the lines with brake clean before you attach the rubber hose, and make sure the clamps are tight, it won't be an issue.
Last edited by Captain Hook; 03-09-2014 at 09:14 PM.




