transmission problems
#1
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i have a 95 blazer and it want shift into overdrive or first. i cleared the code it shift fine until i stopped and it stay in 3rd. what could cause the problem could it be the shift soleniods or the ignition switch or what can someone help me with this problem
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#3
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Could you maybe give a better description of the problem? Do you feel that it is not properly down shifting back to first when you come to a stop? How do you know it is staying in 3rd or is that just an assumption?
Have you looked at the 4L60E Information & Common Problems - Compilation thread in the Tech Article (DIY) section?
Have you looked at the 4L60E Information & Common Problems - Compilation thread in the Tech Article (DIY) section?
#4
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i can feel that its not down shifting when it comes to and stop and it really slow on take off and i don't hear it shift through the gears when i start out. i checked all the wiring on the tran and everything is connected and i remove and clean the senor, and the samething happen no up or down shift.
thank you for responing to my post and helping me out .
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#7
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My 97 Jimmy had the same problem. It seems there are going to be two possible solutions to your problem, I did a LOT of research on mine and came to these conclusions.
1. The 3-2 downshift solenoid is bad or the wiring to it is faulty.
2. The ECM that controls the engine/trans is bad and requires replacement.
First replace the solenoid, NAPA carries these for $28.99 and the job is easy to do once the tranny pan is down. IF you take a DVM and check the resistance of the solenoid and if it reads zero it's bad, mine was.
If that doesn't fix the problem it will most likely be a bad ECU. Apparently some ECU's tend to burn out the board trace that connects to the solenoid control circuit that controls the 3-2 downshift solenoid. Also, while your under the vehicle pull and reinsert the 20 pin trans control plug on the passenger side of the trans. These can corrode or become oil fouled which can play havoc with the solenoids.
If you take the truck to a trans shop, like many people have, they will most likely tell you the transmission is bad and want to replace it outright, don't do it. Get the solenoid and try that first.
1. The 3-2 downshift solenoid is bad or the wiring to it is faulty.
2. The ECM that controls the engine/trans is bad and requires replacement.
First replace the solenoid, NAPA carries these for $28.99 and the job is easy to do once the tranny pan is down. IF you take a DVM and check the resistance of the solenoid and if it reads zero it's bad, mine was.
If that doesn't fix the problem it will most likely be a bad ECU. Apparently some ECU's tend to burn out the board trace that connects to the solenoid control circuit that controls the 3-2 downshift solenoid. Also, while your under the vehicle pull and reinsert the 20 pin trans control plug on the passenger side of the trans. These can corrode or become oil fouled which can play havoc with the solenoids.
If you take the truck to a trans shop, like many people have, they will most likely tell you the transmission is bad and want to replace it outright, don't do it. Get the solenoid and try that first.
Last edited by Bullitholz; 05-08-2010 at 09:21 AM.
#8
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thanks bullitholz for the reply i've ordered the soleniod imma replace both of them hope that will fix the issue if not then i try the ecm do you know right off hand how much that will cost and again thanks for the info and help.
#9
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Actually there are 5 solenoids in these transmissions. The one I am referring to is located in the drivers side front of the valve body.
A good sign as to the condidtion of the transmission will be the amoutn of debris and black scum in the pan. Pay attention to any chips or other stuff that is big enough you can "feel" it when you run your fingers through the oil that is left in the pan once it's dropped.
My truck had 157K on it when I got it and there was no black residue in the pan at all so I knew immediately that there was no mechanical failure inside the unit, it had to be a solenoid/valve body or ECU.
The ECU's are available if you look around, some places on the net have them for around $300 or so. The only issue with replacing the ecu is that you will have to take it to a dealer to get it "flashed" or programmed to match the vehicle you will be installing it in. I hear that costs between $40 and 100 depending on where you have it done.
A good sign as to the condidtion of the transmission will be the amoutn of debris and black scum in the pan. Pay attention to any chips or other stuff that is big enough you can "feel" it when you run your fingers through the oil that is left in the pan once it's dropped.
My truck had 157K on it when I got it and there was no black residue in the pan at all so I knew immediately that there was no mechanical failure inside the unit, it had to be a solenoid/valve body or ECU.
The ECU's are available if you look around, some places on the net have them for around $300 or so. The only issue with replacing the ecu is that you will have to take it to a dealer to get it "flashed" or programmed to match the vehicle you will be installing it in. I hear that costs between $40 and 100 depending on where you have it done.
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