2001 blazer that just rolled over 200,000 Miles. Never had an issue untill now.
I had a leak in my intake gasket. I Pulled off the plentum, the intake manifold. I replaced all the gaskets that came with it and bolted it all back up. When taking off the intake manifold, i had to pull the distributer out (The whole "neck".) Upon finishing installation and putting everything back together. She's not firing up. Acting like i threw the timing. (I didn't touch the timing chain etc, just the dis. and neck.) Which i know plays a roll in timing. I know these engines are self timing after the chain and everything is aligned. But, i tried to hold ignition for awhile to see if it would catch, and nothing. What do i do?
When i took off the two fuel lines, to that box something on it broke, i replaced it with one from the junk yard.

Truck is trying to start, it's sputtering and just turning then killing the battery.. I don't know where to go from here, this shouldn't have happened. The exhaust is bellowing out black smoke as its trying to start as well?? Thanks for the help guys[:@]

 

did you mark the distributor and put it in excatly the way you took it out?
its very important you cant just take it out and drop it in
if you didnt you need to remove the number 1 spark plug and get it so the piston is at TDC then put the distributor in with the rotor pointing to number 1 on the car

 

appreciate your responce!! How would I go upon doing this? It would be great for some detail. Remove the actual cylinder sparkplug or on the cap? Again. Sorry but I could use some detail if u could help. It's much appreciated

 

I'd pull the dist out-make sure you know where you were-move it one tooth either clockwise or counterclockwise-if no better go back the other way two tooth. good luck .jp[]

 

you need to remove the actual cylinder spark plug if you are inexperienced this is probably something a mechanic should do plus you will need a scan tool to set synch after you fix it

 

To get thetiming set right, the #1 cylinder (front driver's side)needs to be top dead center on the compression stroke. Then drop in the distributor and point the rotor to the #1 cylinder, which is roughly 1:00 when looking down on the distributer.
To verify tdc compression stroke: (this works better with 2 people) pull the #1 plug and slowly turn the crank with a breaker bar. When you feel air pressure coming out of the spark plug hole, that means the valves are closed and you're on the compression stroke. Turn the crank until the piston is at it's highest point before going down again. That is tdc. Now drop in the distributer, line up the rotor, and lock it down. You may have to go through this procedure a few times before getting it right. But that's how to do it.

 

Check out THIS THREAD for a full description of how to properly time the distributor. And unless you have replaced either the CMP (camshaft position) sensor or CKP (crankshaft position) sensor, you do not need to have a scan tool for timing of the engine.

 

i work at a garage where i do a few sets of these gaskets a week and alot of the time the check engine light comes on and i have to re-set synch on these engines and with his distributor being so far out i would bet it has tripped the light already

 

If it is installed incorrectly first, maybe. Not knowing what code you are experiencing, I cannot share in your diagnosis. The CASE relearn is only really necessary if a CKP or CMP sensor is replaced.

 

Hey guys! Thanks for all the replies, After reading the article posted above it took me about a half hour. I went tdc, aligned rotor to what i thought it should be, didn't start. Rotated 180' and it fired right up and runs smoother than ever (cleaned out the intake, plenum, tb)

One thing now though, it hasn't thrown any codes yet, But it's idling at ehh.. 1300-1500 rpms.. Any thoughts?