I have never found a diagram showing the shift pattern for the NV236 in all of the references that I have. The shift pattern should be somewhat similar to the NV233 shown below:


Now, there is one other thing that you can do. I must warn you though, if done improperly, you can screw up your encoder. If you apply power and ground to the proper pins on the encoder, you can release the brake assembly, allowing you to turn the encoder motor.

 

Thanks Kyle! At the very least, that will get me in the ball park. Best case senario <-- me FTW.

As for the hot wire... I got a PM from 96blazer nut that said:
"What you do is take a magic marker and mark on the TC a line straight from the shaft. Then take and put your motor as close as you can and make the same mark on the TC encoder motor. ... I then took some wire and traced out the 2 wires that control the motor and bumped it back in place with line you marked on the motor. just touch the terminals very briefly. i hope this helps"

I got that after I returned home with my tail (as it were) between my legs AGAIN. after a fruitless evening of swearing, punching, attempting, swearing, and throwing in various patterns...

Between that and now hearing it from you, I'm getting the feeling that more than one TCEM has met it's doom taking this little gambit... hell at this point i have mine + a new one, so 50/50 it works/i fry it. either way, i have a spare

Tomorrow is my drop dead night. If I can't 'git r done' as that talentless hillbilly decrees, then i'll be joining the ranks of the 2WDers...

 

The problem with bumping the encoder motor is that it is used to having a fairly high resistance. With no resistance, it will free wheel and may damage the encoder. The total travel of the encoder motor is 60* from 4HI to 4LO. The easiest way to do this is to hot wire the brake to release and then with the encoder motor engaged on the sector shaft, rotate it until the bolt holes line up. If it is really far out of whack, then you'll have to turn it some by hand.

 

Kyle I just bumped mine for a split second just to get it the ballpark. It dont take much to move it alot. Kind of like a starter motor. I was very careful and got it close. Then reinstalled it. Now it works great.

 

If you are going through the trouble to power it up to "bump" it, you should just power the brake circuit alone (a 9V battery will do it and it needs to be powered to bump it anyway) and rotate it just as far as you need to by hand. It really is safer that way. If you try connecting it to the truck and hitting a button on the dash switch, you can destroy the encoder. This is especially true if it is not aligned with the mode you are selecting on the switch. The motor will spin the encoder and overshoot, then grab in the opposite direction, etc.

 

I didn't think of using a battery to get it aligned, although it would prob have been a better idea. I hope he gets it fixed.

 

Damn it Damn it Damn it Damn it... I should have checked up on this instead of playing with the fixes thing all day. I can't even fix my damnself let alone help others !
Well i got to the shop tonight. Rolled up the old sleeves and went to work. Rolled my TC to roughly 2 hi. courtesy of that diagram. Ran an alligotor clipped wire from the bat neg to the EM, ran a positive from battery to my hand, stuck the EM in a vice, prayed, and tapped it around until it moved... And moved it did. I dont know WTF I did, but I didn't do it right. That damn thing is bound up GOOD now. I was able to free the lock up with a tiny wrench before, but now no dice...
Thank God I did it to the old one I suspect (by process of elimination) to be the culprit...

The new one was apperantly loaned to a transmission shop up the street to "test some stuff" I was vaguely told by the owner/lead mechanic. I suppose I can not complain as I have not paid for the part and he is letting me work there before closing each night.

FFS tonight was not only another wasted endeavor; I got to ruin a part I don't really understand, and I'm SOL still! I would laugh if i didn't feel like this whole thing isn't an EPIC Fail waiting to be reported tomorrow!

 

To release the lock, put + power to Pin C and ground to Pin D in the 4 pin connector receptacle on the encoder motor.

 

UPDATE: I have yet to cut out of work, but I asked the shop owner to fix me up this morning since I haven't made progress. He put in the new TCEM. Checked both grounds, and traced the wires that run under the D's seat (?) with no faults found. But no fix either...

Now no matter what configuration (new/old switch, TCCM) 5 seonds or so after start up, the TCCM trips the C0387 Unable to Complete Shift. The 323 is gone though. He is leaning toward my TC being bad. Even though it rotates through it's range of motion under wrench pressure, it moves smoothly and doesn't bind, he believes the TC could be the new culprit. If that IS the case, I can hit a JY and attempt to find a doner TC to bolt under, but this is worst case senario option.

Is there ANYTHING else in your collective brain of brains worth picking at, no matter how trivial or petty, that I could suggest before making this move?
*I REALLY dont want to crush myself under a busted up blazer (if I can find the right one) for a shot-in-the-dark throw-parts-at-it fix that isn't needed/wont work?*
I have about an hour to work with before I have to make a move. Any suggestion(s) will be appreciated!

 

That's a new one... Has the mechanic monitored the power to the 4wd system as you start it up and compared it with battery voltage? If the power were to dip for whatever reason, it may not provide enough torque to move the shift motor. It would need to be checked at both the TCCM, and on the shift motor feeds A & B to determine if there is a problem.

And is he sure that he checked the proper grounds?