In a perfect world, fuel trims should be very close to zero. Rule of thumb is, if it's not between +5 and -5, there's a problem. With the engine at normal operating temp, (195F) and the transmission in park or neutral, what are your trims, (LTFT & STFT) at idle and 2K rpm? Need to know both banks, and if they are positive or negative too. Should be 2 sets of 2 numbers.

 

STFT B1: Min -7.8 Mean +15.7 Max +35.7
LTFT B1: Min 0 Mean +18 Max +25
STFT B2: Min -9.4 Mean +17.5 Max +40.6
LTFT B2: Min 0 Mean +18.9 Max +25

This was over about 2 minutes going from idle (~500 RPM) to 2500, to idle, to 1500, and repeated twice. My idea was to catch the trims at each RPM point, but the program I'm using (TouchScan w/ Win8) doesn't allow me to change any viewing parameters, so I'd have to replay each time and switch screens. I think I'll redo it tonight or tomorrow and record just idle, just 1500 RPM, and just 2500 RPM.

BUT, from my readings on Torque this morning, at 2500 RPM short term fuel trim was within a tolerable single digit range. I believe bank two may have had a gain of 3% at some points.

 

Good job!

Positive fuel trim means the PCM is trying richen the mixture. The engine is definitely running lean, on both banks, and I'll get to that.

Also noticed:
Coolant temp is ~15 degrees low. Should be ~200F, probably needs a new thermostat. Low coolant temp will cause the PCM to richen the mixture, and decrease fuel mileage.

Vehicle speed shows you were moving, is that right?

MAP shows positive pressure. Something screwy there. Should be negative unless your turbo charger or super charger is boosting (Probably a software glitch).

IAT is high, unless you were indoors. What was ambient temp?

Both banks running equally lean lets out a ton of stuff as possible problems: plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, leaky injectors, leaky fuel pressure regulator, to name a few. First thing to do is check fuel pressure and leakdown. Low fuel pressure will cause a lean mixture on every cylinder equally. Do you have a fuel pressure tester for this engine?

 

I had actually had the engine off for about a half hour and warmed it from 172 to where it was in the picture. And my turbo is boosting at 42 lbs. SO COOL RITE

On a serious note, it could be a glitch. I'll look with torque tomorrow. And no, I was not moving... for some odd reason my speed is going up with RPMs. I just noticed this today. I suppose it's possible the program tracked the small drive I did to bring the engine up temperature wise a little. My speedo only goes up to 4 if I'm revving only.

It was like 50 today. Could it be the bay temp mixing with outside air?

I do not have a fuel pressure tester... is it one that latches on near the top of the engine? Or is it the in-line fuel pressure test I need to do.

But like I said before, the issue is only evident when there is a change in RPMs. When I revved to 2500 and 1500, both times the engine came back down to idle and was fine for about a second, and then tried to stall. It also likes to do it if I shift to gear.

There aren't any codes to indicate there's an issue related here, just my bank 3 02 is throwing a code (p0147). And like I have read many times, bank 3 does NOT have any effect on engine performance.

 

42psi of boost??? You must go through a TON of head gaskets!

On the IAT... 85F is rather high for this time of year in Ohio. There are a couple of things that can affect it though. If you were inside a heated shop with the hood closed, IAT will increase. The sensor is in the rubber air inlet tube right next to the MAF sensor. You can check the calibration of the sensor very easily. After the engine has been off for 10-12 hours, connect the scan tool, turn the ignition to RUN but don't start the engine. Compare ETC, IAT and ambient temperature. They should all be within 2 degrees of each other. If they don't match ambient, there's a problem.

You need to get your hands on a fuel pressure tester. Most auto parts stores rent/loan them for free and sell them for around $40. If you're going to be keeping this vehicle for a while, you might oughta buy one, you'll use it more than a time or two This is a tester that I made a few years ago. It connects inline at the fuel filter. It will test regulated fuel pressure and leakdown and maximum fuel pump output pressure, along with leakdown in the tank. These are all things that need to be tested on the fuel delivery system. Cost was around $50.



B1S3 sensor has no affect on engine performance.
Problems with the fuel delivery system can not set DTC's in memory.
There is a service port for checking regulated fuel pressure and leakdown next to the distributor.

 

How about parking in the sun? I am dressed in black after all (Not that that would account for a 40+ rise in temperature). And actually, I just welded the heads on. All those guys with 700 hp Hondas told me to do it. lol

I reckon I'll be with this girl for a bit of a while. I'm planning on making the 1k mile trek back home to Maine in May, so actually a lot of what you had suggested before is already in the works. Plugs, wires, distro, and a few suspension parts. I'm really hoping I don't end up with a fuel pump issue, but if it must be done than so be it. I ran it less than 1/4 tank most of the winter last year so that's my own damn fault if it is lol. And by ETC, you mean Engine Coolant Temperature, right? I'll check it tomorrow.

I think I saw a post where you had said you put together about three different adaptors to get the tester right? IIRC

And if they match... Gravy... but if they don't?

 

Running the tank low on fuel is not a problem unless there's a lot of crap in it, even then, there's a large "sock" filter in the tank to capture it. The risk of overheating the pump is a myth. One of the 3 spring loaded tubes on the pump module directs the return fuel flow directly on the pump motor to cool it. If the engine is running, the pump is being cooled.

The stuff I mentioned in post #13, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil are all things that are NOT causing this issue you're having. A failure with any one of them would cause a rich condition.

As for the custom tester... all of the brass stuff is available at Lowes, Home Depot, or a good hardware store, in the plumbing section. The gage is a cheapie $5 one from Harbor Freight. Actually should go to 110psi, but it works. The rubber fuel line, (must be "fuel injection rated") the clamps, (not worm gear style) and the quick connect fittings are available in stock at most auto parts stores. I can get Dorman part numbers if you need them. takes about 10 minutes to put the thing together. One tool, saves a ton of time for checking the entire fuel delivery system. You can do all of the tests and pinpoint the problem in about 20 minutes, no muss, no fuss.

 

If you could, that would be beyond excellent Cap. It'll give me something to mess around with this weekend. Is there any reason it should go to 110?

I'll be checking my temps here in a little bit once I leave for work. Maybe I can get them up around noon or so. Hopefully Torque will read everything.

 

Max pump output pressure should be 73psi to 108psi, that's why you need a 110psi (minimum) gauge. I'll see if I can round up the part numbers.

 

Gotcha. Thanks Cap, I'll get back to you tomorrow with those results and (hopefully) an assembled pressure tester! This morning my tool wouldn't connect... On lunch break I figured out I had to unpair it, and repair the device with my phone. I do have temps for 4 hrs, 6hrs, and 8.5 hrs, but it's no 12 hours like you mentioned before.