I just replaced the lower intake manifold gaskets on my 96 blazer. Before it ran rough and I had an oil leak out the back side if the intake so I decided to replace the intake manifold. Seemed like the upper was a true pain to take off so I didn't mess with that. After replacing the intake manifold I blew a radiator line and had water all over everything. Now when I start up it feels like the engine is dead heading and seriously shakes the entire truck. Oh also did an intake cleaning spray. Had someone hold the rpms at about 2500 while I sprayed it in so as not to hydro lock the thing. But now it starts real hard. I checked all the connections and I can't figure out what is going on someone please help.

 

did you get the dist back to origonal postion and also you might check and see if you got moisture under the dist cap when you blew the line

 

Yes made sure I marked it I took it all apart to dry it out. It starts ok now but I can't get on it at a low rpm or it will stall out like its flooding

 

Now I have a code coming up ckp/cmp correlation problem

 

Sounds possible that in your bad intake gasket situation/possible overheat? you could have cracked a head or warped one causing head gasket failure. The real question is, how bad and how many times did it overheat when the intake gaskets failed? And why did the radiator hose blow? Normally hoses blow or "BURST" because of a cracked head or bad head gasket, the continuous compression strokes act like an air compressor and will push compression pressure into the cooling system through a crack or failed gasket, the cooling system is only meant to hold 15 PSI and engine compression is normally in the 120 PSI range at least, Hoses are usually the weak link and will burst, when you shut the engine off the remaing pressure in the cooling system forces antifreeze back through the crack or gasket and into the cylinder, thus causing your "Deadhead" or more commonly called, "Hydrolock" situation, the cylinder is filled with antifreeze and the piston cant compress liquid, what you need to do is pull all of the spark plugs when its having this "Deadhead" starting Issue and then try cranking, if you get antifreeze spraying out one or more spark plug holes the you found the problem, at that point it's likely that severe engine damage has occured and you need a replacement. I would not even try doing head gaskets alone, you could have a cracked block from overheating or even bent connecting rods and damaged bearings from the Hydrolock situation even just from the starter pushing on them.

The only other thing that i can think of is what Odat mentioned about getting the distributor back in the correct position, on old cars if you had the timing too far advanced by clocking the distributor in the wrong position, the engine would fight itslef while cranking, the spark is igniting the mixture too far before TDC and the power stroke is then pushing back against the starter, i dont even know if these newer ignition systems would work that way though? I guess a realy simple check would be to disconnect the coil wire and try cranking, then there will be no spark to be happening at the wrong time and fighting it, it should just crank normal or like it's out of gas.

Hopefully its the ignition problem as this will be much cheaper and easier to fix.
Or maybe i went off the deep end there and its something way simpler?
Good Luck!

 

funny i just posted that and saw your new post, distributor is probably in wrong, you only have +/- 2 degrees to work with

 

Check out this guys video, i havent watched it all yet but hes usually right on the money.

 

Ok I'm an idiot. I didn't plug the cam sensor back in after head gaskets. Now that solved the hard starting issue. Radiator line was my fault didn't put the clamp back on correctly. Cleared the codes still got a ckp/cmp correlation problem. Checked my cam retard with a high dollar diagnostic tool and it is sitting at 46 degrees now to my understanding wouldn't being that far off cause it not to run?

 

Yes because 46 degrees would mean that the rotor is pointing at the wrong terminal when the spark happens. I would pull the cap and set the timing mark on the crank and see where the rotor lands in comparison to the boss marked 6 on the distributor.

 

Thing is the truck runs ok just idles rough