2004 blazer (4.3L V6 Vortec) 180k mi.

How do I know when to move on from this vehicle, if ever? I have tried to exercise a high level of care for this vehicle, always changing the oil on time, trying to use good parts, etc.

I don't like spending money on cars, and if I have to spend then I want a reliable vehicle. I can do very minor repairs myself, but stuff like control arm replacement or intake manifold gasket are beyond my ability.

I don't want to overreact to the need for some repairs.

The vehicle has a very slight rust patina on the bottom but it is not rusted by any sensible use of the term. It has never been driven on salted roads. As far as I can tell the engine and transmission are in good shape. There is no blue smoke from the tailpipe. I have used this vehicle very gently and lightly--never towed, never off-roaded, and have carried a bunch of stuff in the back only on a few occasions. I don't push, redline, or even make demands of the engine, most of the time it just goes for either a stroll or a very long stroll.

I am facing:

(a) Control arm replacement (probably only one lower is necessary but need to do this symmetrically and then it is only a moderate additional cost to also do the upper control arms, and I can't make a ball joint-only or bushing-only replacement cost effective). Sourcing parts has been hell -- if someone knows how to source OEM GM control arms please let me know. I am having great difficulty making judgments about aftermarket parts, not uncommonly they cut corners like not having zerk fittings which I find concerning. I am reading conflicting reports on the quality of aftermarket parts and it is rather distressing. This repair is above what I can do myself. I can only find Moog RK and I can't find Mevotech TTX for the replacement control arms. I have found AC Delco lower control arms but I'm slightly worried about the quality of AC Delco.

(a.1) The sway bar linkage has rubbery components which have some significant cracks and these will probably need to be replaced.

(b) A weeping intake manifold gasket (not urgent, but this will need to get fixed in the next few years). If I understand correctly, a steel core Felpro is the way to go here, and I am not too worried about that component.

(c) Oxygen sensor replacement (not a big deal, I can do this myself). This alone isn't much of an issue but I am thinking that other parts may start to need replacement.

(d) Horn sometimes doesn't work. Something about pressing it in seems to fix it but then it stops working again.

(e) The instrument cluster blinked off for a long while. Somehow it started working again--I think going over a bump (??).

(f) The windshield wipers sometimes remain stuck on and I have to fiddle with things. This is not yet properly fully broken, but unfortunately I think I need to say that windshield wipers are a necessity and I imagine that I will need.

(g) Undiagnosed oil leak -- an oil pan which is wet everywhere with oil. This isn't such a bad leak that it is dripping. I am not totally sure what the problem is, maybe a busted oil pan gasket? Or could it be a rear master

(h) An AC which does not work, probably a minor leak somewhere.

(i) The center console gets rather hot near the HVAC controls--maybe a heater core issue (?) I am not sure of this one. I am tempted to say also that the cabin is constantly being heated.

(j) I don't want to demand luxury but there is no air recirculation, no cabin air filter, and air from the outside enters the cabin not instantly but it does get in quickly. I tried to investigate the seals but this seems difficult and costly to sort out. I considered renting a fog machine and putting it in the cabin to see where smoke comes out.

I have already done these repairs:

1. Oil coolant line replacement. It was extremely difficult to source the OEM GM part for this, but I was successful.

2. Automatic transmission pan gasket. When this was replaced there were very few shavings in the transmission pan and the mechanic said that the transmission is in good shape.

3. Fuel pump (replaced twice). The first fuel pump replacement failed because the mechanic used a low quality part against my wishes. I wasn't able to source the OEM GM part for this repair despite my best efforts, I am crossing my fingers that Napa auto is correct that the Delphi fuel pump I chose is equivalent to OEM.

4. Idler arm replacement.

5. Rear rotors, rear brake calipers. The brake calipers had to be aftermarket remanufactured. This wasn't too big of a deal.

I don't like nearly all newer vehicles.

I would only drive a naturally aspirated or electric vehicle, or possibly a toyota hybrid. There are very few V6 vehicles which can be purchased, and the ones which can be purchased are extremely expensive. Quite often there are turbochargers which shred the oil, and the cylinder count has been pushed down which pushes engine wear and temperatures up. I hate to seek luxury but 4cyl vibration is no fun. I am terrified of repairs of newer vehicles. I looked at the Chevy Trax but 3 cyl turbocharged with a wet belt seems like a vehicle which needs to be sold within 50k mi.

I am also faced with the fuel costs of this vehicle, which I have measured at 12mpg in city-intensive driving and 19mpg for highway-intensive driving.

I am not sure what other repairs are coming down the line for this vehicle.

 

For your specific questions, a longer reply would be appropriate.

However, as a reply to the larger question one way to look at it is that you should keep it as long as it's costs per month are less than the payments would be for a replacement vehicle. This likely only works if you have a backup vehicle since you will need to do the repairs yourself or hire someone to do them.

The good news is that mechanical parts are still available and the repairs are not hard to do. The most expensive repairs would be to replace the engine or transmission which likely won't apply to you.

That you are not up for work such as replacing the intake manifold gaskets indicates to me that to keep your Blazer would require taking it to a repair shop which will be more expensive.

If you need a mid-sized proper SUV, you might look at a 10 y.o. 4Runner. You'd want to check the purchase and repair costs to see if it is worth it.