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Trying to figure out what could have gone wrong and, after reviewing Christine's thread, think that it was because I should have bent the rigid part of the hose assembly to clear the compressor mounting bolt based on the fact that I did have trouble getting it on there - even though I thought I had managed it fine.
Since I might be ordering parts, it'll take a couple days for them to arrive, but I will need to drive the car. Will it be alright to be driving around with a new and disconnected compressor, provided I plug everything up? I am also going to remove the hose (don't want anything dangling) and plug the accum and cond.
Your asking if you can use the compressor as a pulley only until you finish everything up? I believe that as long as you do not engage the clutch that everything will be fine. Pretty sure that nothing is moving internally with no clutch engagement.
I see now that you broke a hose/connector block at the compressor. I misunderstood and thought that there was a problem at the gauge set.
ok cool, i figured as long as the clutch was not engaged, I'd be ok, so I took out the relay.
new hose assembly and accum ordered, managed to get free next-day delivery through autozone, so that was nice, but we'll see if it actually comes tomorrow.
in the meantime, i'm going to test my equipment. couldn't I pull a vac on my hose set by closing the ends that hook up to the L/H ports and opening the ***** on the manifold to make sure I can actually suck down low enough and then close the ***** on the manifold to see if my L/H hoses hold vacuum?
then, once I have working equipment, could i still pull a vac with the hose assembly plugged up and everything else (except compressor) still connected? in my mind, this would let me know if the pressure leak was at the compressor/hose connection or somewhere else down the line, but I don't know if any part of that sounds like a terrible idea.
ok cool, i figured as long as the clutch was not engaged, I'd be ok, so I took out the relay.
new hose assembly and accum ordered, managed to get free next-day delivery through autozone, so that was nice, but we'll see if it actually comes tomorrow.
in the meantime, i'm going to test my equipment. couldn't I pull a vac on my hose set by closing the ends that hook up to the L/H ports and opening the ***** on the manifold to make sure I can actually suck down low enough and then close the ***** on the manifold to see if my L/H hoses hold vacuum?
then, once I have working equipment, could i still pull a vac with the hose assembly plugged up and everything else (except compressor) still connected? in my mind, this would let me know if the pressure leak was at the compressor/hose connection or somewhere else down the line, but I don't know if any part of that sounds like a terrible idea.
Connect the hoses to the ports but don't open the ports. you need a blanking valve at the pump (either the pump has one or you add one where the yellow hose connects). Open the manifold gauges, open the blanking valve, pump down to 28-30 in hg, close the blanking valve, turn off the pump, watch for 20 min.
Pulling down the system with a hose missing depends on what you are using to block off hose ends and ports. You need a system level perfect seal. Holding a 500 micron vacuum needs a perfect fit.
Connect the hoses to the ports but don't open the ports. you need a blanking valve at the pump (either the pump has one or you add one where the yellow hose connects). Open the manifold gauges, open the blanking valve, pump down to 28-30 in hg, close the blanking valve, turn off the pump, watch for 20 min.
Oh, because I want to make sure that everything with my supply is fine too, so this is how I would check my entire gauge set. I googled blanking valve and am only finding blanking plugs - is this the same?
Pulling down the system with a hose missing depends on what you are using to block off hose ends and ports. You need a system level perfect seal. Holding a 500 micron vacuum needs a perfect fit.
Sounds like that's probably not happening if all I have is the rubber stoppers/plastic screw-on caps for my components.
You need a way to isolate the pump to test the ability to hold a vacuum. Some pumps have a valve near the hook up port like this JB pump:
If not then you need an inline shutoff valve at the pump. There are a dozen ways to do this, here is one example:
In the absence of all of this then you can only test for being able to develop but not hold a vacuum all the way back to the pump, and to hold a vacuum back to the gauge manifold after closing the handle valves. This can work fine as long as you can get the system to at least 28 in hg vacuum. It just makes it harder to diagnose why if you can't and you have to sit there for a while to see if you can develop a proper vacuum everywhere.
Originally got OEM hoses, but figured a Four Seasons hose assembly wasn't going to be an issue. Came with these cheap-looking gaskets (right) for the compressor mounting. Seems like they're the same size as the gaskets I originally received (left) in the compressor kit; would it be an issue if I just use the set on the left?
Only you can answer that question by checking the fit/clearance and checking for any interference to the flow through the bore. Also, the torque specs might be different.
as far as flow interference, how would something like that happen in this case? so that i can avoid it.
the only torque spec is the mounting bolt, shouldn't that not change if i am using gaskets from the OEM kit? thank you for mentioning this because i never would have thought of it.
went ahead with the oem gaskets and oem torque, didn't seem like anything was in the way and it fit fine.
i checked the gauge set from ends to manifold, and it held -28 inHg for about an hour.
then i swapped everything out and changed the oil, connected everything, but it won't go past like -20 to -25 inHg, and when i close the valves on the manifold, it depressurizes immediately. i did manage to seat the hoses a little less clumsily this time. i'll try the mechanic/dry nitrogen route tomorrow.
09-16-2020, 09:35 AM
