Front end up and passenger side (radiator cap side) slightly higher than everything else will get the air out the easiest. Other methods include pulling a vacuum on the system which makes the air come out much easier.

 

not sure if this has been said, I haven't read all the responses.

Dex-cool and regular coolant (orange vs. Green) depends on what your vehicle calls for. Dex-cool is considered "extended life" yet it always clogs up and requires frequent flushing. However if your vehicle calls for dex-cool it must be used. It is designed for a certain type of radiator (different metal composition).

So basically if your engine calls for it, it must be used since the chemicals in the different coolant will react with the metals In the radiator differently

 

No, it does not require frequent flushing, nor does it 'always' clog up. This is addressed in the responses you did not read.

 

I totally agree. 1996 Blazer now with 190,000 miles, and a 9 year old Corvette---Dexcool, radiators & inside of engines all look like new!!!!!!!!! Proper maintence does wonders!!! Duh.

 

Nice first post... Couldn't be further from the truth.

As suggested, read through this thread in its entirety. Your views might just change.

 

i think people have problems with dex when they mix it with the green i think it gums up then.. my opinion

 

My 2000 Jimmy has dex cool I had the dealership do a cooling system flush and they put dex cool back in. I have no problem with dex cool. So far my Jimmy with 86,000 miles looks and runs like new.

 

chevy stupidly put plastic radiator caps on blazers they crack easier.so the double whammy of potentially busting a cap and having dexcool is prob what cuase all the dexcool hatred

 

How about plastic radiator itself. My 1985 toyota tercel radiator developed a leak and I called a radiator shop to see if it could be repaired and he asked me if the top of the radiator was metal or plastic. It was plastic and I had no idea that radiators had plastic tops and bottoms. I had to get a new radiator. The tercel was a station wagon manual shift with 4WD. It was a nice running little car. I sold it when we got the Subaru Outback.

 

There is nothing wrong with Dex-Cool. Chemists and engineers from both Texaco and GM investigated the corrosion issue and could find no problem whatsoever with it. The only difference between Dex-Cool and green antifreeze is the green stuff has a very fine silica sand used as a means of preventing the cooling system from corrosion. Dex-Cool uses a chemical. Dex-Cool has better longer lasting water pump lubricants and anti-corrosive, and anti-foaming agents. That is why it lasts as long as it does.

The important thing is you cannot mix Dex-Cool with green coolant because it will turn into a brown muck. The cooling system has to be thoroughly flushed (including the engine block) if you switch from Dex-Cool to the green coolant.

The heavy corrosion issue was in model year 96, 97, and part of 98 when it problem was discovered and fixed. The corrosion was due to two things. A cheap Stant knock off radiator cap that was Made in India. Many of them wouldn't hold 16 psi when they were new. Most of them would not hold 16 psi at the end of the warranty period. Almost all of the vehicles that had corrosion issues were manufactured at the Moraine (Ohio) Assembly Plant. Almost none at Shreveport, LA or Lyndon, NJ where the pick-ups and 2 dr SUV's were built. Moraine was underfilling the cooling systems by almost a quart. The design of the coolant recovery bottle (CRB) didn't help either. If you look at the corner of the CRB it looked like there was sufficient coolant in the bottle. If you look closer the little corner that made it look like you had sufficient coolant in the bottle in essence had only a couple ounces and not enough to draw back into the radiator after the vehicle cooled down. So, now you had a situation with a low coolant level in the cooling system when the vehicle was new. So, not all areas of the cooling system were being washed in coolant which started the corrosion cycle. The bad radiator cap kept the cooling system at or near atmospheric conditions and coupled with not enough coolant in the system, started the corrosion cycle. If you have the corrosion problem, you have to thoroughly clean the engine block, replace the radiator, and heater core. There is no cooling system cleaner on the market that works on corrosion of that severity .