Nice, this one made me laugh

 

Swartlkk, what if he just buys a s/c? They are supposed to give you approx. 60hp...

strongboy2005, good luck with the GT man, those cars have plenty of torque!
Hope you beat him anyways...
Be sure to have the truck completely tuned...maybe gut the cat for the race and put a bent tube or something after the y-pipe and have the exhaust beneath from the passenger side door...this way the exhaust fumes will exit faster, it will be noisy as hell though...also, have your windows up to reduce air friction, run some seafoam and like swart said: 1/8 of a gas tank, no seats (just yours), no spare tire, anything to reduce weight...
my $.02...

 

To just buy a s/c is only 10% of the problem. You've then got to put it on and unless he's got a fab shop in his back yard, that's where the majority of the $$$ comes in. He has stated that he has $2k to spend. You'll drop that on a Vortec or Procharger centrifugal s/c. It would cost SO much more to drop on a conventional screw or roots type because the lower manifold would have to be custom made to mate up properly or at the very least a custom adapter plate.

I do suppose that it would be likely (however remote the possibility) to buy a kit for a CSC kit 350 v8 but option it with the smallest available compressor and adapt it over to the 4.3L v6, but that is dependant on the accessory mount locations being the same which I have heard differing opinions on.

All scepticizm asside, anything can be done with $$$. Just depends on how much you want to shell out.
With the right tools, it would take a competent back yard mechanic doing it for their first time acouple of days (no beer involved). For me, it would take an afternoon to get everything torn down, an hour or two to get the cam/lifters prep'd (which would probably have already happened before the tear down), and probably a day to get it back together checking everything as you go. Ofcourse, I'd have to have 1-2 cases of beer on hand! LOL

 

LOL, nice...

So what kind of tools would this take? Does the engine need to be removed for this (I assume not)?

What is involved with the "prep" work?

 

NEW LIST OF UPGRADES:

1. Exhaust Headers........................................... ......................10-15 hp.........$300-$550
2. Intake Tract- K&N Gen. II, Custom or similar...........................5-10 hp...........$50-$250
3. Aftermarket Pulleys........................................... ......................3-19 hp...........$65-$225
4. Exhuast Cat-Back System (or just aftermarket muffler).............5-10 hp..........$50-$500
5. E-fan (instead of clutch fan).............................................. ......5-10 hp..........$100-$250
6. Diffuser Removal (throttle blade butterfly)(96+ years)...................5-7 hp............FREE
7. EGR Limiter (Plate for pre-96, S-10 Planet Adapter for 96+).........5-7 hp........... $10-$40
8. Vararam VR Velocity Stack (96-04).........................................5-7 hp...........$30
9. Exhuast Y-pipe (Shop built or SLP).........................................5-7 hp............$150-$250
10. High Flow Catalytic Converter......................................... .....2-5 hp.............$75-$150
11. Full Synthetics (Engine, Transmission, Differentials)..............2-5 hp.............$50-$300
12. Powerdyne's Throttle Body spacer (non TBI or Carb)............... 3-5hp..............$100
13. Resonator Removal (2000 and up)..........................................3-5 hp.............FREE-$50
14. Lower temp thermostat (160 for pre 2000s, 170 for 00+)...........1-3 hp.............$5- $20
15. IAT relocation mod............................................... .................1-3 hp.............$2-$10
16. Programmer (Hypertech, etc- 99+)..........................................3-5 hp.............$300-$400

Could I expect 60 HP from these combined upgrades? Could I do it for under $2000?

 

Get a Camaro and install all of that. You can have 400HP under your

[sm=burnout.gif]foot.

 

But I like my blazer [sm=shades.gif]

 

For 2K you could drop in a V8.[&:]

Personally, new exhaust system so she breathes better (at least headers, and a performance muffler), cold air intake, then get a programmer. Change your puter settings, also bump up your tranny shift points. Your auto tranny will give you an advantage. It has a torque multiplier off the line. It will multiply your torque by 2 1/2 times and gradually decrease until your torque converter matches your engine speed. Plus an auto tranny will shift faster then a manual, and you won't lose momentum like a manual. Drop your tire pressure some to get more grip. If you have cash left over, drop in a limited slip or a locker in the rear axle. One last trick. Put it in 4hi. Nothing worse then a one wheel peel. Once your off the line, pop her back into 2hi.

 

Not in Cali

Just got a new K&N FIPK kit in the mail, planning to do headers and exhaust later, preliminary tests on my Hypertech weren't too good, but I'm gonna retest with a higher octane... (My Review on the Hypertech)

Yeah I changed my auto shift points with the Hypertech, really all it's been good for thus far...

Torque multiplier? Are you referring to the transmission gear ratios? If so... manual actually has taller gears than auto... Manual will also have less "parasitic loss" (I believe that's what it's called), so more of your torque will make it to the wheels...

Mine is the best case scenario already, actually... 2WD Positraction... I get perfect launches already...

 

Say bro, what did you decide to do to try and beat the crap outta the stang?