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Operation Wicker Basket

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  #1  
Old 12-22-2009 | 04:36 PM
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Cool Operation Wicker Basket / Build Thread

Pertinent Stats (based off of RPO Codes): ENGINE,4.3L(4.3W),CPI,V6,90 DEG 4.3W(L35), AXLE,REAR,POSITRACTION,LIMITED SLIP POSITRACTION L/SLIP R/AXL(G80), AXLE,REAR,3.73 RATIO 3.73R(GT4), TRANSMISSION,AUTOMATIC 4 SPEED,4L60E,ELECTRONIC 4-SPD A/TRANS(M30)

Current Discrepancies: (In order of priority)
1. Front left CV-Axle Requires Replacement [FIXED]
1a. Heater Core leaking [FIXED]
2. ABS Code for EBCM Intermittent [FIXED]
3. Fuel Gauge Inop[FIXED]
4. Engine Races (1.5-2K RPM at Idle; stutters at very slow rolling speeds)
5. CHMSL Inop [FIXED]
6. Radio cuts in and out [FIXED]
7. Front Right bumper molding dis-bonded from bumper
8. Outside Thermometer only reads temps below 45F. Above reads OC
9. Dirty coolant overflow tank [FIXED]
10. Transfer case/Transmission slow leaks (approx 1 drop per hour, hot)
11. Cabin Air Blower Motor Intermittent [FIXED]
12. Courtesy Light Rheostat suffers from factory defects [FIXED]
13. Parking Brake does not hold [FIXED]

Corrective Actions planned or complete thus far: (Correlates with Discrepancies)
1. Replace both front CV-Axles; Lube (C/W)
1a. Replace heater core (C/W)
2. Troubleshoot EBCM wires. Possible replacement required. (C/W) *Saved by modulemasters.com*
3. Replace Fuel Pump/Sender assembly (ACDELCO Part # MU1733 {#19177220, 1998, 25176789, 25344818, MU1064, MU85}
MODULE KIT,F/TNK F/PMP 4 DOOR; w/o ROBUST FUEL SYS SENDER(K53))
4. R2 TPS (No fix) R2 IAC (No fix) Cleaned TB and Intake Manifold (No Fix) R2 Distributor, wires, plugs (No Fix)
4a. Replace Injector Assy (Upgrade from CFI to MFI) -- (ACDELCO Part # 2173028 {#89060439} Includes Instructions for Conversion from Poppet-Style Invectors
INJECTOR KIT,CENTRAL SEQ M/PORT FUEL)
5. Troubleshoot CHMSL Wires. Found blown resister: Replace LED assy. (C/W)
6. Pimp my ride. (C/W)
7. Glue
8. Troubleshoot sensor at condenser unit
9. Replace overflow tank (C/W)
10. Wait for major part fail
11. Replace when R2 heater core (C/W)
12. Replace when R2 heater core (C/W)
13. Replace parking brake shoe (C/W)

Projects forthcoming...
1. T-Bar Crank & Shackles to achieve 1.5-2 inch lift (C/W)
2. Hunter Brush Guard
3. Roof Rack Mounted Lights (Inspiration from Kiwiblazer's/Wolfpak design & Method if parts avail)
4. New Wheels & Tires (Inspiration from Benedict's/Wolfpak's Build)
5. Window Tint Increase
6. Roof Rack/Basket (mount lights on it) (inspiration from WolfPak)
7. Tow Package
8. Paint?

Planned Preventative Maintenance:
1. Flush and refill coolant (C/W)
2. Seafoam Engine Intake
3. Flush engine oil and refill
4. Replace all front ball joints during CV-Axle R2 (C/W)



[Currently Installed]
-Tires-
BF Goodrich Radial Long Trail T/A P235/75R15 108T M+S
(Stock P235/70R15)
(Want: BF Goodrich L/T All Terrain? Undecided.)

-Wheels-
15x7J Wheels 6" Backspacing
(Want: Pro Comp Rock Crawlers - PCW152-5762 15x7(or 15x8 for 30") 5 on 4.75" 4.5" Backspacing)

[Wishlist Items]
Rage Black Widow Roof Rack (W/Extension) RB-DLX-V2 / RB-DLX-V2-EXT
Hunter Brush Guard (LT 4d 4x4)
IPF 868 (x2) Lights
 

Last edited by ravenhurst; 07-02-2011 at 02:42 PM. Reason: Edit for Accuracy, update maintenance Jul 2 2011
  #2  
Old 12-22-2009 | 05:42 PM
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damn. i like an organized work plan! looking good. have you tried a tranny juice conditioner like the lucas stuff or some tranny honey? if it thickens it up it might slow the leak a bit at heat.

if you are going to replace your ball joints AND cv axles, you should knock out the t bar crank at the same time to saveon the alignment (only once instead of doing it post t bar too).

I would also suggest doing your plugs/oil change following the Seafoaming.

looks like a pretty solid plan! keep us posted!
 
  #3  
Old 12-22-2009 | 09:33 PM
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Thanks. I needed to put it down somewhere so I could get motivated to do the work. Sometimes its hard to pull away from CODMW2.
As for the tranny leak, it really isn't bad. I thought about putting some type of stop leak in it, but unless it gets worse or I have another transmission related problem, I'm going to leave it as is.
I thought about doing the Tbar crank while doing the other maintenance too, but I didn't post above that the little rubber boots on the pitman/idler arms are pretty much ripped in half. I wanted to change those out before I did the Tbar crank. Luckily I have a place that does alignments inexpensively. Plus I don't have anything to lift the rear end yet. Still haven't researched how to get the same amount of lift on the back end. Once I do that (which could be a year from now... who knows) I'll crank up the tbar.

Thanks for the suggestions. I have not yet used seafoam so thats good to know there is some follow on maintenance to it.
 
  #4  
Old 12-22-2009 | 09:48 PM
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the plugs wont hurt but there is talk that they can be fouled following the foam.

as for the rear, search shackles you will like what you see. not a free as the t bars, but at $60, still not too bad
 
  #5  
Old 12-23-2009 | 02:29 PM
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I found a pair on Ebay going for 45$ buyout. Bids are starting at 20$. Not a bad deal if you ask me, and they already bear the swartlkk seal of approval in a different thread.

Time to research how to install the shackles. If they can get sent out in time, I will lift it all and only have to get one alignment.
 
  #6  
Old 12-23-2009 | 05:43 PM
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i got the same ones. i also got a 4 pack of replacement bushing (they should run you about $20-30 for the 4) its as simple as pulling 4 bolts, and then putting them back in on the larger shackle.

that being said, the bolts get frozen in the bushings and can be a real PITA if you are not prepared. when i do mine, i'm gonna give them a light shot of PB blaster to get the rubber wet, then hit it with a torch. hopefully the pb will help cook out the rubber faster then scuff the bolts clean and reassemble with new bushing FTW!
 
  #7  
Old 12-24-2009 | 06:52 AM
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FYI - You click on the "edit" button to change the title of the thread. If you change the original post title it should change the title of the entire thread.

Looks like a good plan. We need pics though!
 
  #8  
Old 12-24-2009 | 01:08 PM
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Yeah... unfortunately edit won't let you change the thread title. I'm a terrible speller so we'll just all have to deal with it.
I've got tons of pics... but nothing worth showing off. They're all with the engine torn up.
 
  #9  
Old 12-26-2009 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by ravenhurst
Yeah... unfortunately edit won't let you change the thread title. I'm a terrible speller so we'll just all have to deal with it.
I've got tons of pics... but nothing worth showing off. They're all with the engine torn up.
It should let you change it. Make sure you "Go Advanced" when you're editing.
 
  #10  
Old 12-26-2009 | 01:42 PM
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There we go! Didn't notice the Go Advanced button before. But it seems someone was kind enough to change it for me already. Thanks mystery moderator.
 



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