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-   -   2000 Heater Core Replacement Summary - DISCUSSION THREAD (https://blazerforum.com/forum/article-submissions-discussions-47/2000-heater-core-replacement-summary-discussion-thread-36252/)

ravenhurst 04-06-2010 11:29 AM

Good to know. I'm not sure about the extent of the leak I currently have... so far it just smells and fogs up the windows. Nothing has leaked down into the cabin, yet.

Another question that I thought of when I was looking at the parts store... is there a difference between the auto climate control heater core and the manual climate control heater core?

AdamCrosier 04-07-2010 08:31 PM

I'll have to defer that one, though my expectation is that they would be the same. Getting to it; that's where the type of climate control you have matters. I know the heater hose connections are identical. It stands to reason they would be the same. Further, I don't recall being asked when I purchased mine. I know that's not much to go on, but maybe someone else will chime in. No matter what, your auto parts store will likely have the answer.

ssmith5399@nc.rr.com 04-08-2010 01:42 PM

I used your cheat sheet to do my heater core, actuator, and HVAC control panel. I OWE YOU A BEER IF YOU ARE EVER IN RALEIGH, NC. Anyway, the bolts that you had to cut from the inside (step 33), I removed the inside fender on the right front wheel well, made the cutting a little easier. Also, when replacing the bolt from Step 29, my wife had smaller hands and she was able to start the bolt on the first try. My experience was 6 hours out and 5 hours back in, but it's done and working completely. BIG THANKS !!!

AdamCrosier 04-09-2010 06:24 PM

Awesome for you! I used this forum to get mine done, and am glad I could add to the already great thread with my experience. I had some issues getting to the inner fender on mine, so that's why I used the Dremel. I can't imagine trying to make that cut without it, though. Cheers!

dwayne m 05-01-2010 02:58 PM

how do you install heater core in a 02 blazer?

ravenhurst 06-27-2010 08:31 AM

Well I did it! Your notes and pictures, as well as everyones additions to it, were frickin amazing. I followed it exactly and everything worked just fine. I took a few pictures that was different in my 2000 LT 4x4 so anyone with my truck will know whats different. I'll get those up soon. I started at 4pm yesterday, and stopped at about 4am. I also changed out my AC blower motor, radiator, and coolant overflow tank. :)

Shizzinizz 07-09-2010 12:16 PM

I did my 2000 Trailblazer (same as Blazer but with different trim pkg) over about 11 or 12 hours July 4th weekend. Anyone who is even moderately mechanically inclined, can do this job provided they have the time, the basic tools mentioned, and most important, the pictures and instructions from AdamCrosier from this thread.

A few thoughts/notes:
-5.5mm socket would have been nice. Adjustable wrench got it done but was a slight pain.
-10mm deep socket would have -really- been nice, but a short extension and regular socket worked for the "worst bolt", and a 10mm wrench worked for the stud on the firewall.
-There was another bolt on the firewall, behind the dipstick, that had to be removed.
-I got my hand stuck for awhile, removing the "worst bolt". That sucked.
-I didn't put the "worst bolt" back in. Didn't want to get my hand trapped again. Seems to be ok without it, and I'd probably drop the bolt inside anyway.
-I did cut the "outer legs" from the heater box, and that probably saved a ton of time.

-I went back into the dash twice to doublecheck connections after replacing the heater core, but didn't need to. AdamCrosier mentioned two connectors on the back of the stereo in addition to the antenna. Mine only has a CD player, not a tape deck, and I thought I had missed something because there was a 2nd empty connection on the back of the stereo. I only needed the one. Also there's a connector I saw near the brake pedal that doesn't seem to connect to anything... I left it unhooked, and everything seems to work fine (it's near the ABS connector but it's not the ABS). Going back and checking up on these 2 connections took a couple extra hours though. Hopefully someone reads this and ends up not wasting time the way I did.

-I have a floor shifter, and needed to unhook 2 connectors from the "umbilical cable" underneath the floor console before removing the dash. Didn't have to physically take the console out though.

-I bought a ReadyAire heater core from Advance, part number 394195. It did NOT fit. The bottom of the original heater core is rounded, and so is the area it seats into. The ReadyAire is more squared, and it doesn't seat right. It ends up being about a centimeter or so off. So I bought an AC Delco from the local dealership... which reminds me:

- If you have the time, order the AC Delco heater core online from Rock Auto or GM Parts Direct or somewhere, and save some money. List price is $160 or so, I paid $130 plus tax at a local stealership. I could have bought the same part for $105 shipped, no tax, if I had planned ahead. But I was what you might call "halfway across the river with alligators on my ***" and needed to get everything back together over the weekend, so I bought locally.

I'm happy to report I don't smell coolant anymore! And saved a bunch on labor costs. Thanks again Adam for taking the time to post the instructions and pictures, much appreciated!

DrEaMsTeVe 07-09-2010 02:30 PM

Glad to see that we have some good info on the heater core replacement procedures now. It's been a while since I've been back. Thanks for the praises guys.

swartlkk 08-16-2010 09:12 AM


Originally Posted by AdamCrosier (Post 278959)
Figured I'd post my notes for any others attempting this one on this year.

EDIT: High resolution pictures on this album http://s149.photobucket.com/albums/s55/thenewvintagehome/2001%20Chevrolet%20Blazer%20LT%20heater%20core/ Make sure you click on them to get the description at the bottom. Click again to get the high resolution. Sorry! They're not in order, but are labeled by the number on this list. This isn't necessarily the best order, and you'll notice in the pictures that I realized going through it that I should do things differently. Hope this helps you all!
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s.../th_Before.jpg
Last picture before tearing into it
1. Battery off - don't need airbags going off in your face!
2. Lift passenger door threshhold out, pull out kick panel
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...tingcarefu.jpg
Remove threshhold by lifting carefully. Metal clips in plastic will pull from body
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...nelbypulli.jpg
Remove passenger kick panel by pulling carefully. This allows under dash panel to be removed.
3. Remove two 7mm bolts holding passenger lower panel
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...ethepostst.jpg
Remove these two bolts. Note also the studs at the rear on which this panel is reinstalled.
4. Remove 4 7mm bolts for middle panel with 12v accessory receptacles
5. Disconnect harness from middle panel (not at the receptacles)
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...terpanelth.jpg
Remove the bolts on the center panel, then disconnect harness for accessory outlets
6. Remove two 7mm bolts from the OBDII connector on lower drivers panel under dash.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...sierifdone.jpg
Remove two bolts holding OBDII connector. This is done easier before removing panel.
7. Remove 4 7mm bolts from lower drivers panel
8. Disconnect electrical harness from panel to remove (pinch blue connector)
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...ctoratback.jpg
Leave the black box on the panel; remove the connector at the rear by pinching the connector
9. Disconnect parking brake release cable under dash from the lever (push cable grommet out of the holder and diconnect end of cable.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...seatanddis.jpg
Pull rubber grommet out of the seat and disconnect the end of the parking brake cable
10. Remove single 7mm holding courtesy light to drivers panel
11. Remove 4 7mm bolts and remove panel - feed parking brake cable through the hole in the dash
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...dinglowerd.jpg
After removing bolts holding the drivers lower panel, pull cable through the hole through which it passes
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...outasonepi.jpg
Upper dash panel will come out as one piece (with brake handle in dash panel)
12. Remove three 7mm bolts at instrument cluster (one in middle on top and two underneath)
13. Start to pull out the dash trim bezel, enough to push the back wiper/back hatch button out of the bezel, allowing you to disconnect the harness.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...shwiperswi.jpg
Pull out dash bezel enough to push wiper switch out from behind so you can disconnect wires - remove switch, leave bezel for now
14. Open glove box completely by pushing up the spring that keeps it from falling open.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...hisspringc.jpg
Open glove box, then pull this spring up and forward to clear back of glove box, then allow glove box to drop to floor
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...iringharne.jpg
With glove box open, access is available to main wiring harness, passenger air bag connector, and dash bolts
15. Remove air bag harness (yellow wires) next to main harness, and remove main harness by unscrewing middle bolt. There are two blue clips that I pulled out, but can figure out if I needed to or not. Remove at your discretion.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...fromdashto.jpg
Main harness (most wiring from dash to body flows through here.) Remove bolt in middle (I removed blue clips, but not sure if that is necessary) then pull it out
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...thepasseng.jpg
To left of main harness is the passenger air bag connector. Remove orange safety clip and disconnect yellow harness.
16. At left side, remove harness from headlight switch and remove bezel.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...ghtwirings.jpg
After removing dash bolts (two under steering wheel and one at top of instrument cluster) disconnect head and foglight wiring. (Switch stays in dash)
17. Remove radio (2 7mm bolts if stock). Two harnesses and antenna to remove. Now, if you have the cassette, you can either remove the center console or feed the cassette umbilical through the dash. I ended up doing both. To remove console, pull out cup holder rubber and remove two 10mm bolts. Open storage pocket at arm rest, pull out center, and remove two 10mm bolts. Center console is free. Either disconnect cassette wiring or if you have help, when the dash is free, take it with you. I fed the wires from the radio area down out of the dash, but later removed the center console anyway. If you feed the wires, you do not need to remove the center console.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...overadioto.jpg
After bezel is removed, remove radio to disconnect antenna. In my case, I also had to remove aftermarket amp wiring.
18. Remove speaker grills under windshield - 2 7mm bolts. On the passenger, if so equipped, twist the light sensor (a quarter turn I think) to remove and leave the sensor in the dash.
19. Remove defroster grill. Careful - delicate. There are clips on the top (by windshield) and bottom (toward interior of car), four pairs. Remove light sensor as above.
20. Remove 6 upper bolts: one in each speaker bay and four in the defroster duct.
21. Remove 8 bolts and L brackets on either side of the steering column.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...eringwheel.jpg
Remove braces at steering wheel. Four bolts on each. The braces can only install one way so don't worry about mixing them up.
22. Remove 1 10mm bolt behind where brake release was, and one behind the glove box.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...riversside.jpg
Remove main dash bolt on the drivers side
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...assengersi.jpg
Remove main dash bolt. Note the curved stop that allows the dash to hinge forward and stop before lifting out
23. Check to see if the passenger door plunger is wired. If not, you'll know now it, and not freak out about it later.
24. Remove the box at the head of the center console. It has three harness connectors on the left, and they are labeled by color. Two clips and the box should come out.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...connectors.jpg
Disconnect these three connectors behind the center console before removing dash
25. Make sure the gear lever is down in 1st, and the steering column is lowered in the tilt function.
26. Pull dash away from windshield. It will fall against it's own stop. Lift it up off the pins that it hinges on, and it will be free. If you are careful with it, you can take it out the passenger side as is. Help at this stage is awesome, though I put the dash back in myself.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...beforepull.jpg
Disconnect this harness behind the parking brake location before removing dash
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...emblyisout.jpg
Dash assembly out with glove box still attached
27. Pretty much anything in the middle that is black plastic is now coming out, but as one unit. The vacuum module in the front does not need to be disconnected. Let's start with the worst one: Inside the air box in the engine compartment is one of the bolts. There is a spot labeled "cut here for service." It's just to the left of the heater hoses. Cut that out with your utility knife. Not too deep, there is a plastic panel right below it.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...gwhereindi.jpg
Cut the rubberized coating on the box at the factory specialized location. Careful, it's an easy cut and there is a cover underneath.
28 Remove three 5.5 bolts and remove cover. Some earlier models had a blower resister here.
29. With a ratcheting wrench or a 3/8" ratchet and deep socket, remove the one bolt in there which will be shoved up against the filter on the left. Be calm, take your time, it will be a while.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...tinsidebox.jpg
After the cover is removed, the bolt is visible inside. The screen to the left is flexible, but still makes it tough to get out.
30. Over to the right, there is one bolt holding this plastic box to the firewall. Remove it. Near the heater hoses is a stud that protudes from the firewall roughly an inch. Remove the nut.
31. Pull the hoses. You'll lose maybe a cup of coolant here.
32. Inside, passenger floor. At the top of the carpet under the box are three legs. The outside ones are threaded, and you can see the bolt head in them. It is on the engine compartment side. In the middle is one bolt you can remove.
33. On the two outside legs, most people, it seems, just cut them. I did. After bolting it all back together, I shook the unit hard and couldn't find a reason for them. At any rate, I cut the plastic above the bolts and left them screwed into the plastic.
34. Now the box should shake pretty easily. Don't forget that it sits on a saddle that feeds the floor heater ducts for the back seat. There will be a tiny bit of resistance here, but not too much. If there is resistance pulling this out, double check for bolts.
35. As you start to pull the unit out, look for vacuum or electical connectors that need to come out. Top right, there are two, I think. I had taken them all off, but found most could have stayed.
Now that the box is out, yank the two bolts on top of the heater core, remove it. If your foam is OK, reuse it. It holds the core nice and tight and keeps the warm air where it should be.
36. Rejoice! You are more than halfway done. I spent 6 hours removing and a little over 4 hours putting it back.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...ebeenremov.jpg
After removing HVAC unit, there isn't much left
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...singthehea.jpg
This is the firewall side of the unit you remove to get to the heater core.
Good luck!

I editted in the pictures. Just seeing how it turns out.

robertr728 09-20-2010 11:13 AM

I know this is late for all of you but here is a 26 page PDF with removal/install directions and diagrams. Hope it helps someone.


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