Just had mine apart last week to replace hazzard switch I would pull the airbag fuse just to be safe The 95 does have the inverted torx bit that holds the cover on

 

Stuck doing this to my 95. I can't get to the top torx to get the switch out because the upper wheel cover is in the way. I also can't get the upper wheel cover off because I can't figure out how to remove the plastic key hole cover. Any suggestions?

 

Great write up! Well, I hope it is because I have to replace this mess on Saturday on my son's blazer. I do have to give a shout out to Amazon.com and having this switch for $29.25 and it only cost me $5.05 for shipping and handling. I got this through Amazon from a company called Cerell Distributing Company, Inc.. I checked their website and its pure junk. I was worried until the switch showed up today and its brand new and looks great! No packaging to speak of, but why pay for that? OK, I'm hoping that I have the female torx bit or can find a set at the Auto-zone to make this work. I am worried because of all the plastic snap on parts that never seem to want to come loose for me without breaking off tabs. I of course also have to drive 250 miles to get to the truck at my son's college! Everyone wish me luck!!!

 

OK, I want to thank the original post for the write up again and for the pictures! This made the job almost zipless!! I kept waiting for the problems and they never happened! A few comments: 1. Make sure you have wire cutters to cut the wire ties. 2. The top bolt is NOT and E-4! I had one and it is much too small.. maybe an E-5 or 6 if they even make one. I had the 4mm just in case and it works great! 3. I used a flexible extention to get the 10mm nuts back into the steering column support. 4. Getting the switch into the correct position was the toughest part for me. It just took a little bit to get dialed in. I did this with the power hooked up! It may have been potentially dangerous!! 5. Before I put all the covers back on, I tested the switch before I had to un do a lot of work that I already did.

 

your tutorial helps ... but it doesnt really apply to the 97 blazers ... i just got done with mine at 5 o clock today ... and there was some important differences from your tutorial. blazers have t25 and t27 torx screws .... you need a female t25 sized torx socket to get the top part of the switch off of 97 blazers (the part by where you insert your car key). too bad they dont exist ... i had to use a 5/32 socket. the 5/32 is actually too big but if you stick a sewing pin in the socket to close the small gap you can get the socket and the t25 screw to jam. then you u can turn it and get it off ... it takes patience and a steady hand tho. also .... the top cover of the steering wheel wont come off unless you cut it by where the key goes in the ignition ... the 97 mold for the top cover is not cut like the one in your pic.


to anyone who reads this ... yes you need a 4mm socket and a t27 torx to get the second and third covers off .... but the screws holding the top part of the switch are male t25 ... u have to improvise to get those off ... if you cant understand what i posted above and want me to show you in a pic what i did to get them off just message me

thanks wolf pack ... for the most part your tutorial worked :O)

 

Please feel free to post those pictures in this thread to make it more comprehensive.

 

00000000000

 

This would be much more appropriate in a thread specific to your problem. This thread is for the discussion of the article in question and should not be used for technical support.

 

I just wanted to thank you for taking the time to show this to us in such detail. Mine was a 97 Jimmy. A few screws were a little different but all in all , this showed me what I needed to see.
Thanks again

 

Hey guys, all your discussions are a huge help. I am looking into replacing the ignition switch on my daughter's 2000 Blazer. The problem is it intermittently doesn't want to start and I have discovered that is due to no power to the fuel Pump. It seems like it has to do with the ignition switch. Turn the key on, no power to pump. Try to start of course it doesn't start. Release key from start position to on position, still no power to pump. Turn key to off and power goes to pump for 2 seconds as it should. Turn key to on position, power to pump, and of course it starts. As I said this is intermittent and I just recently hooked up a test light to the power wire going to the pump and the sequence described is what occurred the next time it acted up. And yes I have replaced the relay. So does this sound like a problem with the ignition switch?
Thanks