Why does cranking the Tbars cause increased wear (other than making angles of suspension parts more extreme)? You are repositioning one end of a spring, so the other end responds, resulting in lift. However, the tension in the spring shouldn't change when all is said and done. The car hasn't changed weight, and I suppose the spring remains loaded to about the same tension, so there should be no change in compliance either. Just the position of the suspension parts will have changed, leading to problems with travel and hitting bumpstops. So, should I worry that cranking Tbars will change the ride quality and increase parts wear?

You answered your own question. The angles increase the wear. Especially on the CV shafts.

As far as ride quality... In my experience, it will change and I attribute this to the change in lower control arm angle. The higher you raise the vehicle in this manner, the harder the torsion bars are working because you are pulling the ball joint closer to the pivot point. The weight does not change, but the horizontal distance between the ball joint and the lower control arm mounting points is reduced, increasing the moment on the arm. If someone were to measure the lower control arm angle at normal ride height, the distance from the control arm pivot to the balljoint and to the torsion bar mounting location along the control arm, I could actually put numbers to the increase in the moment that the torsion bar sees.

Besides, the last s-series I was in with a ~1.5" lift road like a lumber wagon compared with my Bravada. It started out with the same RPO codes for the suspension as my Bravada.

I can attest that my Blazer definatly rides stiffer than it did before I lifted it.

Nice job Kyle! Torsion bars create body lift by twisting the bars. The bars have a certain range of motion, (twisting back and forth while driving), that they are designed to operate within. If you increase the twist on the bars beyond the specified chassis ride height, you're narrowing the range of motion and eventually they will break. Much like holding both ends of a pencil and twisting in opposite directions simultaneously. It'll take only so much stress before it shatters. You can imagine the force involved when a torsion bar lets go... you'll need to change your pants!

Umm, I may have it backwards, but if the distance between parts (i.e. LCA mount and balljoint) is decreased, isn't the moment decreased too (kind of like shortening a prybar, instead of lengthening it)?
Also, I drive my Jimmy in 2WD most of the time. Then cranking tbars shouldn't be increasing CV joint wear much, since driveshafts are being used, right? I sometimes forget to change out of 4WD while driving on bare roads (after driving in snow), drivetrain doesn't like it;-P
As for Capn's comment, I'm not sure there is increased twist when you crank the tbars. You twist one end, and the other end responds, resulting in lift. The weight the tbars sees probably doesn't change much (where would the 'extra' weight come from?).
Hopefull snow disappears soon hear so I can get some real world experience in tbar cranking and ride quality!

How to check chassis ride height: measure from the center of the lower control arm pivot bolt on a plumb line to the ground. Then measure from the lowest inboard edge of the steering knuckle, (next to the lower ball joint stud.) on a plumb line to the ground. Subtract this measurement from the first measurement and the result is chassis ride height.

Think of it this way: the lower ball joint is always the same distance from the ground, and the ball joint stud is in the center of the ball joint socket. When you increase ride height, you're raising the chassis higher off the ground, which increases the angle of the control arms. Now the ball joint stud is closer to the inboard edge of the socket. Same thing with the CV joints, you're raising the inboard CV which increases the the angle of the half shaft, comparable to pinion angle for driveshafts, which by the way, also wear quicker when doing a t-bar crank due to pinion angle being out of spec.

When ride height is too high, all of the parts, (CV joints, ball joints, tie rod ends) are operating out of the range of movement that were designed to operate within.

Wheather you're in 2WD or 4WD doesn't matter, the half shafts still turn when you're driving. Chassis ride height is suspension related, not driveline.

As for the bars, twisting them is what the adjuster does. When they twist, they develop lift. The forward end is stationary in the lower control arm, you twist the rearward end. Think of a torsion bar as a spring stretched out straight. Instead of coiling it, twist it...same result.

The weight aspect... there is no additional weight involved, but there is more energy involved to raise it higher, that energy comes from increasing the twist on the bars, which increases stress, and eventually they will shatter.

If you want your suspension to last, and the vehicle to handle safely and ride properly, adjust chassis ride height to factory specs.

so can you go say an inch without any added wear, or will even an inch cause parts to wear out faster, because if its even a risk i'd rather not do it (i've heard tbar cranks are a bad idea from people i've talked to), but i'd only like to go up an inch, then put a 2" body lift on

If you want your suspension to last, and the vehicle to handle safely and ride properly, adjust chassis ride height to factory specs.

All of the parts are designed to operate properly when ride height is within factory specs. If it's out of spec, you're asking for problems.

Getting correct specs
 

My problem is that I'm just trying to level my blazer. One day at work I just happened to notice my blazer was leaning to the driver's side (Or lower on that side.) I was told it was my torsion bar needed to be adjusted. But from what you say her both sides need to be adjusted. Why? all I want is the truck to be level. And what is the factory settings? So I can check and get it to that level?

2000 Blazer LS 4x4 (which has been unplugged and not working)

Post #16 explains how to measure ride height. The spec is 4.6" to 5.1" for your vehicle.