what years blazer does this apply to?

i have a first gen, and i dont think i can benefit from this ;(

you can crank the tbars on any vehicle with a torsion bar front suspension, so if you have a 4x4 first gen you can crank away just beware of the side affects previously mentioned. if you have a 2wd first gen the youre SOL.

so can you go say an 1" inch without any added wear? or will even 1" inch cause parts to wear out faster, because if its even a risk i'd rather not do it but i'd like to go up an 1"inch only....

ANY tbar crank will put un wanted stress on your front end as a result things wear out faster.

can you jack one front wheel off the ground only and tighten the torsion bolt and then let the truck down and then go to the other side and jack the other front wheel and tighten the torsion bolt? like can you jack one side at a time and tighten one t-bar at a time while the other side front wheel is still on the ground?
please let me know because i dont think my jack will hold the whole front end by lifting it under the center engine cross member ....

Torsion bars are adjusted while the vehicle is on a flat, perfectly level surface, (not jacked up) such as an alignment rack. A good alignment technician will check ride height and adjust it if necessary, with every alignment. If your alignment technician doesn't do it, you're dealing with a rookie, he's lazy, or is not knowledgeable in front end suspension and alignment, and it's time to find a new technician.

If you look at the CV axles now, you'll notice they're almost perfectly straight when it's sitting (at least on mine it is.) The fact that the CV joints will be at an angle after a lift means they're joints are constantly being manipulated, the simple fact that they're doing their job constantly instead of intermittently means you'll wear them out quicker.

As for when you're cranking them, the only reason I can see to lift the wheel off the ground or take weight off of the side you're cranking would be to make it easier to tighten the bolt... Just make sure you're at the same height on both sides and get an alignment after, tell him you lifted the truck and just to align the camber and whatever else he needs to, but leave the height alone.

Just for the sake of it, crawl under your truck and look at the cross member behind the T-case and you'll see the T-bars going to the front lower control arms, and where the T-bars enter into that cross-member you'll see "keys" pointing towards the drive shaft and a bolt pushing against the keys. When you tighten those bolts it puts more pressure on the keys, which twists the T-bar which in turn lifts the truck. It's quite simple actually. Loosen to lower.

i cranked mine up today and turned the torsion bolts 2 full turns... i got about 1/2" to 3/4" raise. now the truck sits level. and more importantly the truck doesnt bottom out over bumps like it did before. now all i have to do to the suspension is put new front shocks in it to stop the bouncing....

Cool, there's been some talk about Monroe Reflex shocks... cheap and good I hear, look into those.

do you know how much those shocks cost? id like to only spend around $20 for each shock.