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How to Vac gauge

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  #11  
Old 01-13-2010, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Spectreblazer
alright thanks. i dont think kyle has seen it yet.
We can continuously bump it until he does .... LOL
 
  #12  
Old 01-13-2010, 07:36 PM
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The write up is decent, but your pictures are not so good...

*Moved to Article Submission/Discussion*

BTW, I'm not the only one that can move it...
 
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by swartlkk
The write up is decent, but your pictures are not so good...

*Moved to Article Submission/Discussion*

BTW, I'm not the only one that can move it...
alright thanks kyle. you want better pics then? what better view do you want? hoses? grommet? really not to much to hooking these up. let me know
 
  #14  
Old 01-13-2010, 07:55 PM
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How about something that is in focus so you can actually see what you are doing..?
 
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:56 PM
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An idea...

Take pictures of the materials laid out

Take before pictures with sufficient lighting
Note in the pictures with circles where what what is
Take after with similar notes

Suggestion for ya... I know its already installed but idk..
 
  #16  
Old 01-13-2010, 08:00 PM
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Also, you want to make sure that you 't' into the engine side of the check valve that is in the line. If not, your gauge will not read actual engine vacuum all the time, only in high vacuum instances. Once the manifold vacuum level drops (WOT), the check valve will close and all vacuum powered accessories will use the vacuum stored in the reservoir located inside the driver side fender. If you are behind the check valve, you might as well connect to the vacuum feed to the HVAC control module under the dash and not pass any lines through the firewall.
 
  #17  
Old 01-13-2010, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by swartlkk
How about something that is in focus so you can actually see what you are doing..?
alright i can do that, darkness crept up on me

Originally Posted by swartlkk
Also, you want to make sure that you 't' into the engine side of the check valve that is in the line. If not, your gauge will not read actual engine vacuum all the time, only in high vacuum instances. Once the manifold vacuum level drops (WOT), the check valve will close and all vacuum powered accessories will use the vacuum stored in the reservoir located inside the driver side fender. If you are behind the check valve, you might as well connect to the vacuum feed to the HVAC control module under the dash and not pass any lines through the firewall.

alright i'll check that out tomorrow and change the write up if its on the wrong side. it has vacuum all the time. at idle. the only time it doesnt is when you stop on it (WOT) so it might be on the wrong side. i know the one that goes to the front registered vacuum when i pushed the brake so that one must go to the booster i didn't connect to that one though. just curious where does that one that go behind the fender and what would i have to do to replace it.(its dry rotted).

Originally Posted by wlorton
An idea...

Take pictures of the materials laid out

Take before pictures with sufficient lighting
Note in the pictures with circles where what what is
Take after with similar notes

Suggestion for ya... I know its already installed but idk..

alright ill put some more pics up tomorrow
 

Last edited by Spectreblazer; 01-13-2010 at 08:17 PM. Reason: Combining Consecutive Posts - Please use the EDIT function to add additional information to your post if another member has yet to reply. Consecutive Posting is prohibited by the rules of the forum.
  #18  
Old 01-14-2010, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by swartlkk
Also, you want to make sure that you 't' into the engine side of the check valve that is in the line. If not, your gauge will not read actual engine vacuum all the time, only in high vacuum instances. Once the manifold vacuum level drops (WOT), the check valve will close and all vacuum powered accessories will use the vacuum stored in the reservoir located inside the driver side fender. If you are behind the check valve, you might as well connect to the vacuum feed to the HVAC control module under the dash and not pass any lines through the firewall.
well you were right kyle. the tee was on the wrong side. changed it over to engine side and the gauge is alot more responsive. any word on the vac line going into the fender. took 2hrs taking most of the fender and tire splash guard apart. seriously looks almost impossible. there's some module it goes into. do i have to replace the whole module?
 
  #19  
Old 01-14-2010, 09:56 PM
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I believe the module that you are talking about is just the vacuum reservoir. The check valve is what allows the reservoir to work properly. It is like an air compressor, but in reverse. The reservoir stores the high level of engine vacuum for use by the HVAC and 4wd system (if equiped) when the engine is under low manifold vacuum conditions (WOT). So for a vacuum gauge to read properly, you need to be on the true engine side of the check valve in order to see the drops in vacuum when you hit the throttle.
 
  #20  
Old 01-14-2010, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by swartlkk
I believe the module that you are talking about is just the vacuum reservoir. The check valve is what allows the reservoir to work properly. It is like an air compressor, but in reverse. The reservoir stores the high level of engine vacuum for use by the HVAC and 4wd system (if equiped) when the engine is under low manifold vacuum conditions (WOT). So for a vacuum gauge to read properly, you need to be on the true engine side of the check valve in order to see the drops in vacuum when you hit the throttle.
yea its a black box and its incorporated with the fender. so if i was to have to replace that line i would have to replace the vacuum reservoir. which was terrible to get to. i tore most of the fender off and i still dont see how you'd get to it. might just cut what i can splice it with new and live with it. gauge is working right since i switched to engine side. thanks again. i havent forgot about those pics just got to find the time
 


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