10 in Kenwood subs
#1
10 in Kenwood subs
Im gonna get 2 kenwood subs and hook up my 600 watt amp for now do I need onee of those cylinder things?? And should I mount my amp on top of sub box and what settings do I set my amp to because I'm new at subs thanks!
#2
Dont get a capacitor (little cylinder things) they are completely useless. I have my amp screwed to the back of my rear seat, as for settings on your amp.. there is no specific settings that everyone uses.
#3
^^^^^^^ He's right.
A capacitor would be a waste of your money. They have real world uses, but when it comes to what they're being used for in car audio it's not a practical use at all.
If there's no other choice, mounting the amp to the box works. There's less possibility of damage though if it's mounted to a good, secure location. The back of the seat works fine, a custom built amp rack is great too. Just Monday I helped a local kid fix his setup with an amp mounted to the box. The box slid around the back of his SUV and it jerked the ground out of the amp. When the ground came out it contacted a few strands of wire that were sticking out of the remote terminal AND it blew his 200A fuse under the hood. Needless to say the remote output of his HU was toasted and I had to rewire his remote to the switched 12v wire for the HU. Like I said, mounting the amp to the box can work but it definitely shouldn't be done if the box isn't mounted down, held still, or otherwise motionless.
As Rich mentioned there's not any one setting that everyone can use. I will say that when it comes to "Bass Boost, Bass EQ, etc." setting on amps should ALWAYS be left at zero, turned all the way down. That's about the ONLY universal rule for a setting from one setup to another IMHO. Gains, sub sonic filter (SSF), and low pass filter (LPF) will all be different from one setup to another and from one persons taste to another. The gain is used to match the input level of the amp to the output level of the HU. The easiest and best way to set the gain is to turn the volume up to the highest comfortable level for your highs, then turn the gain up until you begin to hear distortion and then turn it back down just a hair. The SSF will really only be necessary if you're using a ported enclosure. Below the frequency that the enclosure is tuned to it no longer controls the movement of the subwoofers cone and it's very possible to destroy the sub mechanically by overexcursion. Setting the SSF to just right below the tuning frequency of the enclosure filters out the frequencies below that protecting the sub. The LPF adjusts where the cutoff frequency is for the subs on the high side. Most people run this in the 80 to 120hz region so the subs can help some with the midbass duty for good impact from drums and such. This one really comes down to personal preference or in other words what sounds good to you.
Out of idle curiosity, what Kenwood sub are you looking at and how much are they going to cost you? There may be some highly recommendable alternatives depending on the budget you're looking to spend. Also, what are you going to do for an enclosure? More important than what sub you want to use is the enclosure you're planning on putting it in. The enclosure makes or breaks the performance of the sub and is the MOST important part of any subwoofer setup because of that.
A capacitor would be a waste of your money. They have real world uses, but when it comes to what they're being used for in car audio it's not a practical use at all.
If there's no other choice, mounting the amp to the box works. There's less possibility of damage though if it's mounted to a good, secure location. The back of the seat works fine, a custom built amp rack is great too. Just Monday I helped a local kid fix his setup with an amp mounted to the box. The box slid around the back of his SUV and it jerked the ground out of the amp. When the ground came out it contacted a few strands of wire that were sticking out of the remote terminal AND it blew his 200A fuse under the hood. Needless to say the remote output of his HU was toasted and I had to rewire his remote to the switched 12v wire for the HU. Like I said, mounting the amp to the box can work but it definitely shouldn't be done if the box isn't mounted down, held still, or otherwise motionless.
As Rich mentioned there's not any one setting that everyone can use. I will say that when it comes to "Bass Boost, Bass EQ, etc." setting on amps should ALWAYS be left at zero, turned all the way down. That's about the ONLY universal rule for a setting from one setup to another IMHO. Gains, sub sonic filter (SSF), and low pass filter (LPF) will all be different from one setup to another and from one persons taste to another. The gain is used to match the input level of the amp to the output level of the HU. The easiest and best way to set the gain is to turn the volume up to the highest comfortable level for your highs, then turn the gain up until you begin to hear distortion and then turn it back down just a hair. The SSF will really only be necessary if you're using a ported enclosure. Below the frequency that the enclosure is tuned to it no longer controls the movement of the subwoofers cone and it's very possible to destroy the sub mechanically by overexcursion. Setting the SSF to just right below the tuning frequency of the enclosure filters out the frequencies below that protecting the sub. The LPF adjusts where the cutoff frequency is for the subs on the high side. Most people run this in the 80 to 120hz region so the subs can help some with the midbass duty for good impact from drums and such. This one really comes down to personal preference or in other words what sounds good to you.
Out of idle curiosity, what Kenwood sub are you looking at and how much are they going to cost you? There may be some highly recommendable alternatives depending on the budget you're looking to spend. Also, what are you going to do for an enclosure? More important than what sub you want to use is the enclosure you're planning on putting it in. The enclosure makes or breaks the performance of the sub and is the MOST important part of any subwoofer setup because of that.
#6
I think the Sundown E10 is a great recommendation. Very solid little sub.
Another couple of recommendations I'd like to make that are in the same ball park are the SSA DCON and the Incriminator Audio I series subs.
If you don't mind the enclosure being a little larger in size ported is the way to go for getting the most output from whichever sub you decide to use. Going with a sealed enclosure will be smaller but will lack the output and low frequency extension that a ported enclosure can offer. Properly designed and tuned a ported enclosure can offer the same tight, fast and accurate response a sealed can as well. The old myth that a sealed is for SQ and a ported is for loose loud boomy bass is inaccurate.
Another couple of recommendations I'd like to make that are in the same ball park are the SSA DCON and the Incriminator Audio I series subs.
If you don't mind the enclosure being a little larger in size ported is the way to go for getting the most output from whichever sub you decide to use. Going with a sealed enclosure will be smaller but will lack the output and low frequency extension that a ported enclosure can offer. Properly designed and tuned a ported enclosure can offer the same tight, fast and accurate response a sealed can as well. The old myth that a sealed is for SQ and a ported is for loose loud boomy bass is inaccurate.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post