Is this an alright Alternator?
 

When i bought my truck from a dealer 2 years ago they put this Alternator in because the other one was bad.
BBB Industries - Automotive & Power Sport e-Catalog
Im planning on running a 800-1000 watt amp for my stereo and was just wondering if this will run that just fine.

PS: sorry if this should be in the audio section, i didnt know which to post it in.

Edit: Sorry for some reason the link brings you to the search page. The part number is B8206-5

yeah np, just use a capacitor to protect the trucks electronics and will keep your lights from dimming. plus itll hit harder lol. 1 farad per 1000 watts minimum

please do not give advice if you do not understand the truth about capacitors. OP, you want to ensure your big 3 is upgraded. This, along with a good battery and alternator will keep your lights from dimming. you will not, I repeat NOT, need a cap with your mild system.

will not NEED, but is a good idea electronics dont like spikes. and as 4 u bobdits u got some nerve! this is an open forum for help not for bs. nothing i said was wrong and i do understand. im ase master level so watch your p's and q's

I want to hear the truth about capacitors.
Just a link to something authoritative will do.

I've got a little formal training my own self and I've been noticing lately there's a LOT of experts in car audio big sound dont seem to think they're a good idea.. or necessary.

Funny.. any other intermittent draw system they are a good thing.

Something to think about though.. before you hook up arc welding cable between your alternator and the current drain; rectifier diodes blow from instantaneous overload, too.. in fact, mostly.

That's the best main reason to upgrade your alternator. You can make sure the terminals are in top shape but dont increase the wire size from alt to battery by more than one ga size unless you go to a bigger alternator. And then match the wire size to it. Of course you find that by looking at a car they came on. some mfrs DO know what they are doing; that resistance and fuse link are there for a reason.

From Battery to amp, use as heavy a wire as you can get. Better to run matching pos and neg all the way from battery terminals. If that's impractical, increase the neg from battery neg to frame a lot, run at least 10ga neg back to the amp, tie to body ground.
I'd run at least 8 ga positive wire back to a 1000w amp.

Thanks for the info guys, i do have some knowledge of capacitors, bobditts and Trucktom you guys were both right no one was really wrong. thank you pettyfog for your info as well. so from what i gathered, my alternator will be just fine then. my plan is to run 4 gauge from the battery back to the two amps then use a splitter to run two 8 gauge wires to each. one amp is 1000 watts and the other is maybe 100 watts (for door speakers)

check out the sticky in this section ;)

do you have a specific 1000 watt amp in mind? is that RMS or peak power? If RMS, I imagine the minimum recommended wire size from the amplifier company is going to be 4ga.


this statement was wrong. The reason why a vehicles lights dim from an audio upgrade is due to a bottleneck in the electrical system. Installing a cap without fixing the root cause will cause more harm than good. The dimming is almost aways due to a weak battery, bad/dying/weak alternator, old or too small wiring, or a combination. Youre right, this is an open forum which is why we have to protect the people who are still learning from misleading information. Nothing rude about it.

bottle neck, ok. thats one way to say it. thats why the cap helps cause the power supply is at the amp, keeps the voltage drop to a minimum over the distance. imo the cap is healthy for the amp because the more amps pulled over a set distance is in relation to the voltage drop, lower volts requires more amps to do the same job causes loss of efficiency and excess heat. plus sub buzz. and big plus 1 on the aditional ground