AMP/BATTERY Questions...
#21
BF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 2,654











if you upgrade the big 3 you should be fine with a stock alt. on that little bit of power
#22
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Zanesville oHIo
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ORIGINAL: blazinloud
also its a class a/b amp
also its a class a/b amp
#23
what do the different classes mean? mines a class D. is that good?
#24
BF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Saskatoon, Canada
Posts: 3,333

a/b are less effecient, will draw more power, will it not.....at least thats what I was lead to believe.
class D is a mono sub amp, built specifically for driving subs
class D is a mono sub amp, built specifically for driving subs
#25
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location:
Posts: 55

hmm i see what you sayin blazin
i dont know what i should do.
i have subs already but i just need a good amp i guess that can run at 1500watts
any sugguestions?
it could be 1200 watts also i just want something in that range.
i dont know what i should do.
i have subs already but i just need a good amp i guess that can run at 1500watts
any sugguestions?
it could be 1200 watts also i just want something in that range.
#26
BF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Saskatoon, Canada
Posts: 3,333

well I would like to suggest a sundown, but its a little hard to find one used, and their a little pricey.
what subs and voice coil config.?
but really with that crunch I bet you would only get around 500 watts, if your lucky. then the gain/bass boostwould get maxed out to compensate for that and it wouldnt sound too great......
but cheap power hifonics is the way to go. this amp has been suggested a million times....but oh well, its a good deal.
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=16368
^^^its power, not the best quality, but it will definatly kick the crunch.
http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/s...p;productId=20
^^ tested at .35 ohms over 2200rms on an 85 amp alt(dual batts)
what subs and voice coil config.?
but really with that crunch I bet you would only get around 500 watts, if your lucky. then the gain/bass boostwould get maxed out to compensate for that and it wouldnt sound too great......
but cheap power hifonics is the way to go. this amp has been suggested a million times....but oh well, its a good deal.
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=16368
^^^its power, not the best quality, but it will definatly kick the crunch.
http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/s...p;productId=20
^^ tested at .35 ohms over 2200rms on an 85 amp alt(dual batts)
#27
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location:
Posts: 55

i hear good things about hifonics
yeah thats a good deal for what i need
btw..what is dynamic music watts anyway?
yeah thats a good deal for what i need
btw..what is dynamic music watts anyway?
#28
BF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Saskatoon, Canada
Posts: 3,333

that term is used as a scam to make a buyer think he is getting that much power. along with "max" or "peak"
you want to look for the "rms" wattage, which means continuous power.
some companies rate their amps at different voltages also.
the higher the voltage themore power it will produce.
for example the hifonics is probably rated at 14.4 volts which is as high as most charging systems charge to. BUT as soon as you add a load to the charging system the voltage will drop, resulting in a decrease in amplifier output.
while the sundown is rated at 12.8 volts(1500watts [email protected] volts)
then when you start your engine the charging system bumps up to 14.4(idealy) so then the power from the amp exceeds the rated output.
you want to look for the "rms" wattage, which means continuous power.
some companies rate their amps at different voltages also.
the higher the voltage themore power it will produce.
for example the hifonics is probably rated at 14.4 volts which is as high as most charging systems charge to. BUT as soon as you add a load to the charging system the voltage will drop, resulting in a decrease in amplifier output.
while the sundown is rated at 12.8 volts(1500watts [email protected] volts)
then when you start your engine the charging system bumps up to 14.4(idealy) so then the power from the amp exceeds the rated output.
#29
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location:
Posts: 55

hmmm makes sense now.
yeah i know what RMS is. thats what i always look for
i love going to CC or Best Buy and they try and trick you into thinking that.
i've helped a few people from getting ripped off
yeah i know what RMS is. thats what i always look for
i love going to CC or Best Buy and they try and trick you into thinking that.
i've helped a few people from getting ripped off
#30
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Join Date: Oct 2007
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Posts: 1,169

ORIGINAL: blazinloud
class D is a mono sub amp, built specifically for driving subs
class D is a mono sub amp, built specifically for driving subs




