Thanks for the link, i've thought about buying bed liner spray and possibly spray some on the panels and such. i've heard that this can prevent rattles aswell and supposably will prevent some road noise.

 

Grr... SSA is not letting me log in. =( i sent them a message re. my log in problem hopefully they get at me soon, i don't want to make another account.

 

Are you a member on it? they have some rule that you can't post in other sections until you have 3 posts in the new member section or something like that.

 

Yes, i've been a member for 1 year and a half or so. The problem i'm having is the fact that i can't log in even though i did the password reset process. I'll have to give it a try later on today, maybe the their server was acting up or something.

 

i know that it does take ssa longer than other sites to get back to you about password resets and such.

 

yaya finally logged in ssa. I also cut up four .50" mdf baffles. Will try to test fit 2 of them tomorrow. That should give me 1" thick baffle, hopefully it clears.

 

I was able to use a .50" baffle and it cleared. I did cut a bit of the rubber stuff that is on the window rail so the mid driver magnet can not rub against it. The door panel doesn't close all the way on the corner where the speaker is, but all of the other clips close. it's not much, the door still opens/closes fine and ppl will not be able to tell that there is a small gap . The thickest baffle that can fit is a .50" this size baffle rubs(outter edges) a bit on the door grill, but it will work for me. I don't really want to fabricate as much as of now. This test fit was done on the driver side front door. I need to visit the hardware store and pick up some screws and glue and possibly some foam to put in between the baffle and mid driver to prevent vibration. As of now i'm just stuck on what amp to go with. i'm leaning towards the jl audio hd600/4 and using it in bridge mode to give each door about 175 rms and possibly go 2 way/3 way active in the future by adding some HAT L4's.

 

so you're going to bridge them then have the gains set at next to zero? just wondering

 

I don't get what you're saying either... lol :/ I have a dmm and SMD DD-1 so i'll be using those tools.