So I just replaced my dash tweeters which were not working, with 4x6 3ways. All of my speakers are 4 way pioneer 6 1/2s in the door 4ohm and my HU is a pioneer. It is important to not that I DID cut out the bass blocker on the lines. Almost all of my power is going to the dash now with almost no power to the front door speakers. If I reinstall bass blockers, will it balance it out? I'm not that interested in the bass from the dash(just the sound clarity). Or would I need to hook up the door speakers to an amp? Just need a lil help!

 

The dash speakers and the door speakers are connected in parallel in the wires behind the dash to the front channels of the HU. While it is true that the HU isn't meant for a 2 ohm load (which it has now with the 4 ohm door speakers and 4 ohm dash speakers connected in parallel to each other in the wiring) which COULD cause a drop in power, the 4x6's wouldn't be getting "more" power because with equal resistances in a parallel circuit the power is divided equally. The actual issues are that the 4x6's are closer to your ears, right next to the windshield which is reflecting the sound, and obviously much more efficient (SPL 1w/1m) than the 6.5" which are considerably farther from your ears and don't have anything to reflect the sound off of. It simply doesn't take as much power to get the 4x6's louder than the 6.5's.

There's no good way to remedy the issue since your HU doesn't have 6 separate channels except to build an attenuation circuit for them OR as you mentioned, to put a separate amp on the 6.5's in the door so that you can adjust them separate from the 4x6's.

 

Well the back of the oem tweeters say 4ohm on them. I put my ears to my front door speakers and on top of very low sound there is no bass out of those speakers. Could I put bass blockers inline to the dash and solve this? My door speakers are quite powerful and I lost quite a bit of power.

 

You say there is no bass coming out of the speakers? There won't be a lot, but, there should be some. I'm wondering if you got the speakers wired out of phase. Take one of the speakers out and flip the wires. The wire that's on the +, put that on the - and the wire on the - and put it on the + and see if that helps.

 

Compared to what came out before there is none. The speakers were wired in long before the 4x6 were installed. They are wired in correctly bud. My main question is whether or not it was a good idea getting rid of the bass blockers. I've read that they help this sort of thing

 

Again, the power isn't "robbed" from the door speakers, but it is split evenly. Considering BOTH speakers are 4 ohms and say the HU delivers 25wrms into it's now 2 ohm load each speaker is seeing 12.5wrms (all figurative and as an example, I doubt the HU is giving any more power than what it's rated for at 4ohms and quite possibly less due to an ohm load that little bitty amp IC chip isn't designed to handle). The reason the factory was able to get by with having two 4 ohm speakers was two fold. First the given inductance of the voice coil of the factory 6.5" acts like a LPF in the circuit on the amp and filters the highs on it's own (though only measurable with equipment, not really audible, but can be seen on response graphs and explains why every woofer has a high end rolloff). Secondly the tweeter had the bass blocker which is nothing more than a capacitor being used as a HPF AND due to the VERY low inductance tweeters generally have there's almost no load from a tweeter on an amp in the first place. Together an amplifier never really knows it's driving two separate speakers.

Now, with your situation, you have two 4 ohm speakers both with some real inductance that an amp will react with and see a real load AND the 4x6's are very much likely to have a higher sensitivity than the 6.5's do. The higher sensitivity means that, for example, with just 1 watt of input power the 6.5's may have 85dB of output while the 4x6's may have 90dB of output. Keep upping the wattage and guess which one is ALWAYS louder than the other. Adding the bass blockers back in would help with the load on the HU's amp. However your 4x6's will basically be turned back into tweeters playing only the frequencies above the crossover point of that little capacitor (probably 2khz and above) with any real output and anything below that will be considerably hard to hear if even audible. Kind of defeats the purpose of putting full range speakers there in the first place doesn't it?

The best options are to either put an external amp on your door speakers and run the 4x6ers off the HU alone, or wire the front channel of the HU to the 4x6's and the front door speakers off the rear channel forgetting about the rear door speakers so that the HU's internal amp is evenly loaded and you're not running the risk of burning it up. One other option is to wire the front and rear door speakers in series on the rear channel to have all four working with the 4x6's on the front channel.

Six speakers is always going to present a problem when you have a 4 channel amp with limited power and loading capabilities. As with EVERYTHING else in car audio there's a choice that has to be made and the compromise that choice results in lived with. The best way to avoid having to make a choice that results in a compromise you don't really want is to plan ahead to limit them in the first place.

 

I am kinda in the same situation, but i have not replaced the tweeters yet. I have an Xtreme (2-door) with 6x9 in the back. I already put 3-way 6.5's in the doors and didnt realize the 4x6's in the dash were only tweeters until i took the grill off. Can the h/u (stock) fade be adjusted to give the overpowering dash speakers less power? Or should i just keep the tweeters and not put a 3-way in the dash? Thanks!

 

Just install an amp. The speakers in your door are probably a much higher RMS than your HU can cover as it is and when you added the 4x6's it left nothing to drive either set with. Sort of like putting a 15" JL Audio sub rated at 2000 watts with a 200 watt amp. it will barely move. get a good 4 channel and you can hook all of it up and use the gain on the front channel to balance them out.

 

That's what I did in my '04 BlaZer2. I put 4x6 plates in the dash and installed a 4-channel amp that handles 2-ohm loads. The dash and door speakers were wired in parallel (bass blocker cut off). There is definitely a lot of sound bouncing off the windshield. I use the fader to back off the front a couple notches and it balances out a bit.

 

I really don't want to add an amp. Sounds like leaving the tweeters in the dash is my best option. Thanks