Hey Guys,

Sorry if this has been covered already but I'm looking to put a 10" sub with an amp about 18" long and 12" wide in the back of my Blazer. I do alot of camping and in no way want to sacrifice too much space in the back area.Disabling the seats in any way is not going to be possible for me so no amps underneath the seats either. I was looking at removing the back panel overtop the wheelwells-not the side with the jack and stuff though. Has anyone done this that would be able to give me an idea of how to go about it?

I have full access to avacuum-former and full wood shop, etc. so pretty well anything is possible, just looking to keep space requirements at a minimum and make it durable enough to get bashed into with a good sized cooler every now and then.

Thanks,

Eric

 

Well that sounds like a pretty big amp to hide anywhere.And the problem with hiding it inside of panelsis that you need good airflow to an amp so that it does not over heat and fail...If youre worried about space I would just build a normal box with the amp mounted to it and leave yourself enough slack on your wires to move it around to accomodade anything large you need to carry. Then put a nice drill over the sub to prevent that cooler from taking its toll...Maybe put the power wires on a quick disconnet so if you need even more room you can quickly remove the entire box easily and quickly...

 

That sounds pretty good. When I do this though, I'll be removing a good chunk of the panel and fitting the enclosure to the steel underneath the panel, then building theenclosure from that.

What are your thoughts on a band-pass box with the amp mountedontop of the sub-box but isolated from the vibration with a full plexi-glass housing with a cooling fan added in the side for the amp?

Definately doing the quick-connect thing, thanks for that Cloak

 

Unless you have a professional design the box I would stay away from bandpass. A basic ported box will sound nice and even sealed if you want to save space. Ive done a lot of SUV single sub setups with a truck style box. Make it the width of the cargo area, have the sub on one side and mount the amp on the other. I find this to work real well because if you leave enough slack on your wiring you can just fold the rear seats down and slide the box against the side of the truck and if leaves you with tons of room...

 

Alright, that sounds pretty awesome

Thanks

 

While I do not have an amp that big (it's just an MTX Road Thunder 200 watter), I was worried about my sub taking up too much space as well, and wanted to have room to carry things to and from school, plus in the summer I often times carry stuff for work. One thing that I have set up is the amp is located under my seat (while you cannot do this with that size of an amp, I will get to my point) and the sub out back. Within the remote wire I put a toggle switch, this allows me to not only retain the same function of the remote wire, but also allowed me to choose when I was the amp on or off, so if I need to haul something, I just turn the amp off and disconnect the wires from the sub. I actually put the toggle switch in my center console, on the inside of the deep section, out of sight out of mind. Now the way I solved the issue of the drivers seat is that I just left enough wires to where the seat can move and not disrupt the amp. Just a small suggestion with the toggle switch. That is all.

 

I'm having mine installed and the guy who is doing is gona put plugs on all the stuff so i can remove the the sub and amp completly if i ever need/want to

i think he called them pig tails?

 

Im pretty sure you are talking about "Quick Disconnects"...Just a power, ground, and Remote male and female harness...I put one in on most of my installs. That way if a customer does remove the system at any time theres so chance they can hook something back up wrong...


p.s. Woot A/V hits 10,000 posts...

 

I'm worrying about this problem, too, because I have a tool box bungeed down right where the sub should go behind the back seats, and the tool box itself is almost the size of a dual sub box. I can always move it to the side and either find a way to bungee it off there or just move it down to the rings closest to the hatch.
I'm planning on buying a used cheap pickup truck, though.

 

After actually pulling my sub from my oldcar and fullychecking the size of the box, it will fitdecently between the wheel well and the hatch; with some changes. The main point Iwill still need to fix is the 'bumping' issue . I will be forming a sheet of plastic to the back area between the wheel well and hatch, then fill that with fiberglass or one of the many resins we use at my work, then building the remainder of the box from that base. From there I may either work out some band-pass designs and test them; or just build a simple sealed box, then build a protective kind of cage from steelaround the box and amp. Either thisor I will be plating the whole sub box in steel for looks, dynamatting the space between of course, and building a box around the amp to fix somewhat ontop of the sub, with vibration isolaters, and a plexi-glass window type of thing with a cooling fan built into the side.

-I will be wiring qucik connects as you have stated; where would I pick one up that is large enough for the power cable though?

Does one of those plans sound decent to you guys? And do you know any problems with one of these ideas off the bat?